PACKING  AND 
PORTAGING 

BY  DILLON  WALLACE 


PACKING  AND  PORTAGING 


PACKING    AND 
PORTAGING 


BY 

DILLON    WALLACE 

Author  of  "The  Lure  of  the  Labrador  Wild,"   "The 

Long  Labrador  Trail,"   *'  Saddle  and  Camp  in 

the  Rockies,"   "Across  the  Mexican 

Sierras,"  etc. 


HANDBOOKS 


NEW  YORK 

OUTING   PUBLISHING   COMPANY 
MCMXII 


1/1/3 


COPYRIGHT,  1912,  BY 
OUTING   PUBLISHING   COMPANY 


All  rights  reserved 


CONTENTS 

CHAPTER  PAGE 

I.  PACKING  AND  THE  OUTFIT         .  9 

II.  THE  CANOE  AND  ITS  EQUIPMENT  12 

III.  CAMP     EQUIPMENT     FOR     THE 

CANOE  TRIP 15 

IV.  PERSONAL  EQUIPMENT     ...  23 
V.  FOOD 31 

VI.  THE  PORTAGE 38 

VII.  TRAVEL  WITH  SADDLE  AND  PACK 

ANIMALS 51 

VIII.  SADDLE  AND  PACK  EQUIPMENT  56 
IX.  PERSONAL     OUTFIT     FOR     THE 

SADDLE 64 

X.  ADJUSTING  THE  PACK     ...  71 

XI.  SOME  PRACTICAL  HITCHES        .  77 
XII.  TRAVELING  WITHOUT  A   PACK 

HORSE 101 

XIII.  AFOOT  IN  SUMMER          .      .      .  106 

XIV.  WITH   SNOWSHOES  AND   TOBOG- 

GAN         no 

XV.  WITH  DOGS  AND  KOMATIK        .  123 


251154 


ILLUSTRATIONS 

PAGS 

Method  of  Slinging  Load  on  Aparejo  58,  59 

Sling  for  Racking  on  Crosstree  Saddle  74 

Squaw  or  Crosstree  Hitch     .      .      .  79,  80 

The  Crosstree  Diamond  Hitch      .      .  82, 83 

United  States  Army  Diamond  Hitch  85,  86 

Lifting  Hitch 93,  94 

Stirrup  Hitch          96 

Saddle  Hitch          97 


PACKING  AND 
PORTAGING 

CHAPTER    I 

PACKING  AND  THE  OUTFIT 

ORDINARILY  the  verb  to  pack  means 
to  stow  articles  snugly  into  receptacles, 
but  in  the  parlance  of  the  trail  it  often 
means  to  carry  or  transport  the  articles  from 
place  to  place.     The  pack  in  the  language  of 
the  trail  is  the  load  a  man  or  horse  carries. 

Likewise,  a  portage  on  a  canoe  route  is  a 
break  between  navigable  waters,  over  which 
canoe  and  outfit  must  be  carried;  or  the  word 
may  be  used  as  a  verb,  and  one  may  say,  "  I 
will  portage  the  canoe,"  meaning  "  I  will  carry 
the  canoe."  In  the  course  of  the  following 
pages  these  terms  will  doubtless  all  be  used  in 
their  various  significations. 

Save  for  the  few  who  are  able  to  employ  a 
retinue  of  professional  guides  and  packers  to 
attend  to  the  details  of  transportation,  the  one 

9 


ID      PACKING  AND  PORTAGING 

chief  problem  that  confronts  the  wilderness 
traveler  is  that  of  how  to  reduce  the  weight 
of  his  outfit  to  the  minimum  with  the  least 
possible  sacrifice  of  comfort.  It  is  only  the 
veriest  tenderfoot  that  deliberately  endures 
hardships  or  discomforts  where  hardships  and 
discomforts  are  unnecessary.  Experienced 
wilderness  travelers  always  make  themselves 
as  comfortable  as  conditions  will  permit,  and 
there  is  no  reason  why  one  who  hits  the  trail 
for  sport,  recreation  or  health  should  do  other- 
wise. 

In  a  description,  then,  of  the  methods  of 
packing  and  transporting  outfits  the  tenderfoot 
and  even  the  man  whose  feet  are  becoming  cal- 
loused may  welcome  some  hints  as  to  the  selec- 
tion of  compact,  light,  but,  at  the  same  time,  ef- 
ficient outfits.  These  hints  on  outfitting,  there- 
fore, I  shall  give,  leaving  out  of  consideration 
the  details  of  camp  making,  camp  cookery  and 
those  phases  of  woodcraft  that  have  no  direct 
bearing  upon  the  prime  question  of  packing  and 
transportation  on  the  trail. 

Let  us  classify  the  various  methods  of  wild- 
erness travel  under  the  following  heads:  i. 
By  Canoe;  2.  With  Saddle  and  Pack  Animals; 
3.  Afoot  in  Summer;  4.  On  Snowshoes;  5. 
With  Dogs  and  Sledge.  Taking  these  in  or- 
'der,  and  giving  our  attention  first  to  canoe 


PACKING  AND   THE  OUTFIT     n 

travel,  it  will  be  found  convenient  further  to 
subdivide  this  branch  of  the  subject  and  dis- 
cuss in  order:  (a)  The  Canoe  and  its  Equip- 
ment; (b)  Camp  Equipment  for  a  Canoe 
Trip;  (c)  Personal  Equipment;  (d)  Food; 
(e)  The  Portage. 


CHAPTER   II 

THE   CANOE   AND   ITS   EQUIPMENT 

A  SIXTEEN-FOOT  canoe  with  a  width 
of  at  least  33  inches  and  a  depth  of  at 
least  12  inches  will  accommodate  two 
men,  an  adequate  camping  outfit  and  a  full  ten 
weeks'  provisions  very  nicely,  and  at  the  same 
time  not  lie  too  deep  in  the  water.  A  fifteen- 
foot  canoe,  unless  it  has  a  beam  of  at  least  35 
inches  and  a  depth  of  12  inches  or  more,  is 
unsuitable.  Three  men  with  their  outfit  and 
provisions  will  require  an  eighteen-foot  canoe 
with  a  width  of  35  inches  or  more  and  a  depth 
of  no  less  than  13  inches,  or  a  seventeen-foot 
canoe  with  a  width  of  37  inches  and  13  inches 
deep.  The  latter  size  is  lighter  by  from  ten 
to  fifteen  pounds  than  the  former,  while  the 
displacement  is  about  equal. 

The  best  all-around  canoe  for  cruising  and 
hard  usage  is  the  canvas-covered  cedar  canoe. 
Both  ribs  and  planking  should  be  of  cedar,  and 
only  full  length  planks  should  enter  into 


THE  CANOE  13 

construction.  Where  short  planking  is  used 
the  canoe  will  sooner  or  later  become  hogged 
— that  is,  the  ends  will  sag  downward  from  the 
middle. 

In  Canada  the  "  Peterborough "  canoe  is 
more  largely  used  than  the  canvas-covered. 
These  are  to  be  had  in  both  basswood  and 
cedar.  Cedar  is  brittle,  while  basswood  is 
tough,  but  the  latter  absorbs  water  more  read- 
ily than  the  former  and  in  time  will  become 
more  or  less  waterlogged. 

Cruising  canoes  should  be  supplied  with  a 
middle  thwart  for  convenient  portaging.  Any 
canoe  larger  than  sixteen  feet  should  have 
three  thwarts.  To  lighten  weight  on  the  por- 
tage, and  provide  more  room  for  storing  outfit, 
it  is  advisable  to  remove  the  cane  seats  with 
which  canvas  canoes  are  usually  provided. 
This  can  be  readily  done  by  unscrewing  the 
nuts  beneath  the  gunwale  which  hold  the  seats 
in  position. 

Good  strong  paddles — sufficiently  strong  to 
withstand  the  heavy  strain  to  which  cruising 
paddles  are  put — should  be  selected.  On  the 
portage  they  must  bear  the  full  weight  of  the 
canoe;  they  will  frequently  be  utilized  in  pol- 
ing up  stream  against  stiff  currents ;  and  in  run- 
ning rapids  they  will  be  subjected  to  rough 
usage.  On  extended  cruises  it  is  advisable  to 


i4      PACKING  AND  PORTAGING 

carry  one  spare  paddle  to  take  the  place  of 
one  that  may  be  rendered  useless. 

Experienced  canoemen  pole  up  minor  rapids. 
Poles  for  this  purpose  can  usually  be  cut  at  the 
point  where  they  are  needed,  but  pole  "  shoes  " 
— that  is,  spikes  fitted  with  ferrules — to  fit  on 
the  ends  of  poles  are  a  necessary  adjunct  to 
the  outfit  where  poling  is  to  be  done.  With- 
out shoes  to  hold  the  pole  firmly  on  the  bot- 
tom of  the  stream  the  pole  may  slip  and  pitch 
the  canoeman  overboard.  The  ferrules  should 
be  punctured  with  at  least  two  nail  holes,  by 
which  they  may  be  secured  to  the  poles,  and 
a  few  nails  should  be  carried  for  this  purpose. 

A  hundred  feet  or  so  of  half-inch  rope 
should  also  be  provided,  to  be  used  as  a  track- 
ing line  and  the  various  other  uses  for  which 
rope  may  be  required. 


CHAPTER  III 

CAMP   EQUIPMENT  FOR  A  CANOE   TRIP 

PERSONAL  likes  and  prejudices  have 
much  to  do  with  the  form  of  tent  chosen. 
My  own  preference  is  for  either  the  "A" 
or  wedge  tent,  with  the  Hudson's  Bay  model  as 
second  choice,  for  general  utility.  Either  of 
these  is  particularly  adapted  also  to  winter 
travel  where  the  tent  must  often  be  pitched 
upon  the  snow.  If,  however,  the  tent  is  only 
to  be  used  in  summer,  and  particularly  in  canoe 
travel  where  a  light,  easily  erected  model  is 
desired,  the  Frazer  tent  is  both  ideal  for  com- 
fort and  is  an  exceedingly  light  weight  model 
for  portaging. 

Duck  or  drill  tents  are  altogether  too  heavy 
and  quite  out  of  date.  They  soak  water  and 
are  an  abomination  on  the  portage.  The  best 
tent  is  one  of  balloon  silk,  tanalite,  or  of  extra 
light  green  waterproofed  tent  cloth.  The  bal- 
loon silk  tent  is  very  slightly  heavier  than 
either  of  the  others,  but  is  exceedingly  durable. 
For  instance,  ay  1-3x7  1-3  foot  "  A  "  tent  of 

15 


1 6      PACKING  AND  PORTAGING 

either  tanalite  or  extra  light  green  waterproof 
tent  cloth,  fitted  with  sod  cloth,  complete, 
weighs  eight  pounds,  while  a  similar  tent  of 
waterproof  balloon  silk  weighs  nine  pounds. 
A  Hudson's  Bay  model,  6x9  feet,  weighs  re- 
spectively seven  and  seven  and  one-half  pounds. 

These  three  cloths  are  not  only  waterproof 
and  practically  rot  proof,  but  do  not  soak 
water,  which  is  a  feature  for  consideration 
where  much  portaging  is  to  be  done  and  camp 
is  moved  almost  daily. 

Some  dealers  recommend  that  customers 
going  into  a  fly  or  mosquito  country  have 
the  tent  door  fitted  with  bobbinet.  The  idea 
is  good,  but  cheese  cloth  is  much  cheaper  and 
incomparably  better  than  bobbinet. 

The  cheese-cloth  door  should  be  made  rather 
full,  and  divided  at  the  center  from  tent  peak 
to  ground,  with  numerous  tie  strings  to  bring 
the  edges  tight  together  when  in  use,  and  other 
strings  or  tapes  on  either  side,  where  it  is  at- 
tached to  the  tent,  to  reef  or  roll  and  tie  it  back 
out  of  the  way  when  not  needed. 

When  purchasing  a  light-weight  tent,  see 
that  the  dealer  supplies  a  bag  of  proper  size 
in  which  to  pack  it. 

A  pack  cloth  6x7  feet  in  size,  of  brown 
waterproof  canvas  weighing  about 3  1-2  pounds, 
makes  an  excellent  covering  for  the  tent  floor 


EQUIPMENT  FOR  A  CANOE  TRIP     17 

at  night.  On  the  portage  blankets  and  odds 
and  ends  will  be  packed  and  carried  on  it.  If 
one  end  and  the  two  sides  of  the  pack  cloth 
are  fitted  with  snap  buttons  it  may  be  converted 
into  a  snug  sleeping  bag  with  a  pair  of  blan- 
kets folded  lengthwise,  the  bottom  and  sides 
of  the  blanket  secured  with  blanket  safety  pins 
as  a  lining  for  the  bag. 

My  standby  for  summer  camping  is  a  fine 
all-wool  gray  blanket  72x78  inches  in  size 
and  weighing  51-2  pounds.  This  I  have  found 
sufficient  even  in  frosty  autumn  weather — al- 
ways, in  fact,  until  the  weather  grows  cold 
enough  to  freeze  streams  and  close  them  to 
canoe  navigation.  Used  as  a  lining  for  the 
improvised  pack  cloth  sleeping  bag,  this  blan- 
ket is  quite  bedding  enough  and  makes  an  ex- 
ceedingly comfortable  bed,  too. 

A  three-quarter  axe  with  a  24-  or  28-inch 
handle  makes  a  mighty  good  camp  axe.  A 
full  axe  is  heavy  and  inconvenient  to  portage 
and  the  lighter  axe  will  serve  every  purpose  in 
any  country  at  any  time.  Personally  I  favor 
the  Hudson's  Bay  axe.  This  may  be  had  fitted 
either  with  a  24-inch  or  1 8-inch  handle.  In 
the  two-party  outfit  which  we  are  discussing 
there  should  be  two  axes,  one  of  which  may 
be  fitted  with  the  shorter  handle,  but  the  other 
should  have  at  least  a  24-  and  preferably  a 


1 8       PACKING  AND  PORTAGING 

28-inch  handle.  Every  axe  should  have  a 
leather  sheath  or  scabbard  for  convenient  pack- 
ing. The  so-called  pocket  axes  are  too  small 
to  be  of  practical  use.  The  camper  does  not 
wish  to  miss  the  luxury  of  the  big  evening 
camp-fire,  and  he  can  never  provide  for  it  with 
a  small  hatchet  or  toy  pocket  axe. 

Cooking  utensils  of  aluminum  alloy  are  the 
lightest  and  best  for  the  trail.  Tin  and  iron 
will  rust,  enamel  ware  will  chip,  and  unalloyed 
aluminum  is  too  soft  and  bends  out  of  shape. 
The  best  sporting  goods  dealers  carry  complete 
outfits  of  aluminum  alloy.  I  have  used  them 
in  the  frigid  North  and  in  the  tropics,  in  canoe, 
sledging,  tramping  and  horseback  journeys, 
and  can  recommend  them  unequivocally,  save 
perhaps  the  frying  pan. 

The  two-man  cooking  and  dining  outfit 
should  contain  the  following  utensils: 

i  Pot  with  cover  7x6^  inches,  capacity  three  quarts. 

i  Coffee  pot  6x6%  inches,  capacity  two  quarts. 

I  Steel  frying  pan  9%x2  inches,  with  folding  handle. 

1  Pan  9x3  inches,  with  folding  handle,  for  mixing-  and 
dish-pan. 

2  Plates  8%  inches  diameter. 
2.  Cups. 

2  Aluminum  alloy  forks. 

2  Dessert  spoons. 

i  Large  cooking  spoon. 

1  Dish  mop. 

2  Dish  towels. 

The    regular    aluminum    alloy    cup    is    too 


EQUIPMENT  FOR  A  CANOE  TRIP.     19 

small  for  practical  camp  use.  There  is  an 
aluminum  bowl,  however,  holding  one  pint,  but 
without  a  handle.  This  is  about  the  right  size 
for  a  practical  cup,  and  I  have  a  handle  riveted 
on  it  and  use  it  as  a  cup.  The  top  only  of  the 
handle  should  be  attached,  that  the  cups  may 
set  one  inside  the  other.  The  heat  conducting 
quality  of  aluminum  makes  it  a  question 
whether  or  not  enamel  cups  are  not  preferable. 

To  pack  the  outfit  snugly,  set  the  mixing  pan 
into  the  frying  pan,  the  handles  of  both  pans 
folded,  place  the  plates,  one  on  top  of  the 
other,  in  the  mixing  pan,  the  cooking  pot  on 
top  of  these,  and  the  coffee  pot  inside  the  cook- 
ing pot.  The  cups  will  fit  in  the  coffee  pot. 
The  weight  of  this  outfit  complete  is  5  1-2 
pounds. 

A  waterproof  canvas  bag  of  proper  size 
should  be  provided  in  which  to  pack  the  uten- 
sils. Forks  and  spoons,  wrapped  in  a  dish 
towel,  will  fit  nicely  in  the  canvas  bag  along- 
side the  pots. 

Waterproof  canvas  is  suggested  for  the  bag, 
not  to  protect  the  utensils  but  because  any- 
thing but  waterproofed  material  will  absorb 
moisture  and  become  watersoaked  in  rainy 
weather,  adding  materially  to  the  weight  of 
the  outfit. 

One  of  the  handiest  aids  to  baking  is  the 


20      PACKING  AND  PORTAGING 

aluminum  reflecting  baker.  An  aluminum 
baker  16x18  inches  when  open,  folds  to  a 
package  12  x  18  inches  and  about  two  inches 
thick,  and  fitted  into  a  waterproof  canvas  case 
weighs,  case  and  all,  about  four  pounds. 

Broilers,  fire  irons,  fire  blowers  or  inspira- 
tors, as  they  are  sometimes  called,  and  many 
other  things  that  are  convenient  enough  but 
quite  unnecessary,  should  never  burden  the  out- 
fit. Even  though  the  weight  of  some  of  them 
may  be  insignificant,  each  additional  claptrap 
makes  one  more  thing  to  look  after.  There 
are  a  thousand  and  one  claptraps,  indeed,  that 
outfitters  offer,  but  which  do  not  possess  suffi- 
cient advantage  to  pay  for  the  care  and  labor 
of  transportation,  and  my  advice  is,  leave  them 
out,  one  and  all. 

Outfitters  supply  small  packing  bags  of 
proper  size  to  fit,  one  on  top  of  another,  into 
larger  waterproof  canvas  bags.  These  small 
bags  are  made  preferably  of  balloon  silk.  By 
using  them  the  whole  outfit  may  be  snugly  and 
safely  packed  for  the  portage. 

In  one  of  these  small  bags  keep  the  general 
supply  of  matches,  though  each  canoeist  should 
carry  a  separate  supply  for  emergency  in  his 
individual  kit. 

In  like  manner  two  or  three  cakes  of  soap 
should  be  packed  in  another  small  bag.  Float- 


EQUIPMENT  FOR  A  CANOE  TRIP     21 

ing  soap  is  less  likely  to  be  lost  than  soap  that 
sinks. 

A  dozen  candles  will  be  quite  enough. 
These  if  packed  in  a  tin  box  of  proper  size 
will  not  be  broken. 

Repair  kits  should  be  provided.  A  file  for 
sharpening  axes  and  a  whetstone  for  general 
use  are  of  the  first  importance.  Include  also 
a  pair  of  pincers,  a  ball  of  stout  twine  and  a 
few  feet  of  copper  wire.  A  tool  haft  or  han- 
dle with  a  variety  of  small  tools  inside  is  con- 
venient. Either  a  stick  of  canoe  cement,  a 
small  supply  of  marine  glue,  or  a  canoe  repair 
outfit  such  as  canoe  manufacturers  put  up  and 
which  contain  canvas,  white  lead,  copper  tacks, 
calor  and  varnish  will  be  found  a  valuable  ad- 
junct to  the  outfit  should  the  canoe  become 
damaged.  This  tool  and  repair  equipment 
should  be  packed  in  a  strong  canvas  bag  small 
enough  to  drop  into  the  larger  nine-inch  water- 
proof bag. 

A  small  leather  medicine  case  with  vials 
containing,  in  tabloid  form,  a  cathartic,  an 
astringent  (lead  and  opium  pills  are  good) 
and  bichloride  of  mercury,  suffices  for  the 
drug  supply.  Surgical  necessities  are:  Some 
antiseptic  bandages,  a  package  of  linen  gauze, 
a  spool  of  adhesive  plaster  and  one-eighth 
pound  of  absorbent  cotton,  wrapped  in  oiled 


22       PACKING  AND  PORTAGING 

silk.  In  addition  most  campers  find  it  con- 
venient to  have  in  their  personal  outfit  a  pair 
of  small  scissors.  These  are  absolutely  neces- 
sary if  one  is  to  put  on  a  bandage  properly. 
The  regular  surgical  scissors,  the  two  blades  of 
which  hook  together  at  the  center,  are  the 
most  convenient  sort,  both  to  use  and  to  carry, 
and  have  the  keenest  edge. 

A  pair  of  tweezers  takes  up  but  little  room 
and  is  useful  for  extracting  splinters  or  for 
holding  a  wad  of  absorbent  cotton  in  swabbing 
out  a  wound,  as  cotton  will,  of  course,  become 
septic  if  held  in  the  fingers. 

A  small  scalpel  is  better  than  the  knife  blade 
for  opening  up  an  infection,  as  it  is  more  con- 
venient to  handle  and  will  make  a  deep  short 
incision  when  desired.  These  will  all  be 
packed  in  one  of  the  small  balloon  silk  bags. 


CHAPTER  IV 

PERSONAL  EQUIPMENT 

EACH  canoeist  should  have  a  personal 
kit  or  duffle  bag  of  waterproof  canvas. 
These  may  be  purchased  from  outfitters 
and  are  usually  36  inches  deep  and  of  12,  15, 
1 8  or  21  inches  diameter.  The  1 2-inch  bag, 
however,  is  amply  large  to  accommodate  all 
one  needs  in  the  way  of  clothing  and  other  per- 
sonal gear.  This,  as  well  as  every  other 
waterproof  canvas  packing  bag  mentioned,  ex- 
cepting the  cooking  kit  bag,  should  be  supplied 
with  a  handle  on  the  bottom  and  one  on  the 
side.  These  bags  not  only  keep  the  contents 
dry,  but,  as  previously  stated,  do  not  absorb 
moisture  to  add  to  the  weight,  a  very  essen- 
tial feature  where  every  unnecessary  pound 
must  be  eliminated.  I  was  once  capsized  in  a 
rapid  and  my  duffle  bag  lay  half  a  day  in  the 
water  before  it  was  recovered.  The  contents 
were  perfectly  dry. 

One  suit  of  medium  weight  woolen  under- 
clothing in  addition  to  the  suit  worn  is  ample 

23 


24      PACKING  AND  PORTAGING 

for  a  short  trip.  Four  extra  pairs  of  thick 
woolen  socks  should  be  provided — the  home- 
knit  kind.  An  excellent  material  for  trousers 
to  be  worn  on  the  trail  is  moleskin,  though  for 
midsummer  wear  a  good  quality  khaki  is  first 
rate.  Moleskin,  however,  will  withstand  the 
hardest  usage  and  to  my  mind  is  superior  to 
khaki  or  any  other  material  where  wading  is 
necessary  and  on  cold  or  rainy  days,  as  it  is 
very  nearly  windproof.  A  good  leather  belt 
should  be  worn,  even  though  suspenders  sup- 
port the  trousers. 

The  outer  shirt  should  be  of  light  weight 
gray  or  brown  flannel  and  provided  with  pock- 
ets. A  blue  flannel  shirt  of  the  best  quality 
is  all  right.  The  cheaper  qualities  of  blue 
crock,  and  this  feature  makes  them  objection- 
able. If  the  outer  shirt  is  too  heavy  it  will  be 
found  cumbersome  under  the  exertion  of  the 
portage. 

A  large,  roomy  Pontiac  shirt  to  slip  over  the 
outer  shirt  and  use  as  a  sweater  is  much  pref- 
erable to  a  sweater  on  the  trail.  It  is  wind- 
proof  and  warm.  Do  not  take  a  coat — the 
Pontiac  shirt  will  be  both  coat  and  sweater. 
A  coat  is  always  in  the  way  on  a  canoe  trip 
and  makes  the  pack  that  much  heavier. 

A  pair  of  low  leather  or  canvas  wading 
shoes  for  river  work  and  larrigans  or  shoe 


PERSONAL  EQUIPMENT         25 

pacs  for  ordinary  wear,  large  enough  to  admit 
two  pairs  of  woolen  socks,  are  best  suited  to 
canoeing.  Heavy,  hobnailed  mountaineer 
shoes  or  boots  are  not  in  place  here. 

Heavy  German  socks,  supplied  with  garter 
and  clasp  to  hold  them  in  position,  are  better 
than  canvas  leggings,  and  protect  the  legs  from 
chill  at  times  when  wading  is  necessary  in  icy 
waters. 

Any  kind  of  an  old  slouch  hat  is  suitable. 

Some  canoeists  take  with  them  a  suit  of 
featherweight  oilskin.  Personally  I  have 
never  worn  rainproof  garments  when  canoe- 
ing. Once  I  carried  a  so-called  waterproof 
coat,  but  it  was  not  waterproof.  It  leaked 
water  like  a  sieve,  and  was  no  protection  even 
from  the  gentlest  shower.  I  am  inclined,  how- 
ever, to  favor  featherweight  oilskins,  though 
not  while  portaging — they  would  be  found  too 
warm — but  when  paddling  in  rainy  weather, 
or  to  wear  on  rainy  days  about  camp. 

If  the  trip  is  to  extend  into  a  black  fly  or 
mosquito  region,  protection  against  the  insects 
should  be  provided.  A  head  net  of  black  bob- 
binet  that  will  set  down  upon  the  shoulders, 
with  strings  to  tie  under  the  arms,  is  about  the 
best  arrangement  for  the  head.  Old  loose  kid' 
gloves,  with  the  fingers  cut  off,  and  farmers' 
satin  elbow  sleeves  to  fit  under  the  wrist  bands 


26       PACKING  AND  PORTAGING 

of  the  outer  shirt  will  protect  the  wrists  and 
hands.  The  armlets  should  be  well  and  tight- 
ly sewn  upon  the  gloves,  for  black  flies  are  not 
content  to  attack  where  they  alight,  and  will 
explore  for  the  slightest  opening  and  discover 
some  undefended  spot.  They  are,  too,  a  hun- 
dred times  more  vicious  than  mosquitoes. 

There  are  many  receipts  for  fly  dope,  but  in 
a  half  hour  after  application  perspiration  will 
eliminate  the  virtue  of  most  mixtures  and  a 
renewed  application  must  be  made.  Ness- 
muk's  receipt  is  perhaps  as  good  as  any,  and 
the  formula  is  as  follows: 

Oil   of   pine  tar 3  parts 

Castor   oil 2  parts 

Oil  of  pennyroyal I  part 

If  when  you  were  a  child  your  father  held 
your  nose  as  an  inducement  for  you  to  open 
your  mouth  while  your  mother  poured  castor 
oil  down  your  throat,  the  odor  of  the  castor 
oil  rising  above  the  odors  of  the  other  ingredi- 
ents will  revive  sad  memories.  Indeed  it  is 
claimed  for  this  mixture  that  the  dead  will 
rise  and  flee  from  its  compounded  odor  as  they 
would  flee  from  eternal  torment.  It  certainly 
should  ward  off  such  little  creatures  as  black 
flies  and  mosquitoes. 

Another  effective  mixture  is: 


PERSONAL  EQUIPMENT         27 


Oil  of  tar 3  parts 

Sweet   oil 3  parts 

Oil  of  pennyroyal I  part 

Carbolic    acid 3  per  cent 

An  Indian  advised  me  once  to  carry  a  fat 
salt  pork  rind  in  my  pocket,  and  now  and  again 
rub  the  greasy  side  upon  face  and  hands.  I 
tried  it  and  found  it  nearly  as  good  as  the 
dopes. 

Unless  one  penetrates,  however,  far  north 
in  Canada  during  black  fly  season  these  extra- 
ordinary precautions  will  scarcely  be  neces- 
sary. There  is  nowhere  in  the  United  States 
a  region  where  black  flies  are  really  very  bad 
(though  perhaps  I  am  drawing  invidious  com- 
parisons in  making  the  statement),  and  even 
in  interior  Newfoundland  they  are,  compared 
with  the  farther  north,  tame  and  rather  inof- 
fensive though  always  troublesome. 

The  choice  of  fishing  tackle,  guns  and  arms 
depends  largely  upon  personal  taste.  Steel 
rods  of  the  best  quality  will  serve  better  than 
split  bamboo  on  an  extended  trip  where  one, 
continuously  on  the  portage  trail,  is  often  un- 
able to  properly  dry  the  tackle.  The  steady 
soaking  of  a  split  bamboo  rod  for  a  week  is 
likely  to  loosen  the  sections  and  injure  a  fine 
rod.  A  waterproof  canvas  or  pantasote  case 


28       PACKING  AND  PORTAGING 

is  the  right  sort  for  the  rod — leather  cases  are 
unpractical  on  a  cruising  trip. 

Leather  gun  cases,  too,  under  like  circum- 
stances will  become  watersoaked,  and  under 
any  circumstances  they  are  unnecessarily 
heavy.  Use  canvas  cases  therefore  in  consid- 
eration for  your  back.  They  are  light  and  in 
a  season  of  rain  immeasurably  better  than 
leather. 

Economize,  also,  on  ammunition.  Do  your 
target  practice  before  you  hit  the  trail.  A 
hunter  that  cannot  get  his  limit  of  big  game 
with  twenty  rifle  cartridges  is  an  unsafe  in- 
dividual to  turn  loose  in  the  woods. 

For  spruce  grouse,  ptarmigan  and  other 
small  game  a  ten-inch  barrel,  22-caliber  single- 
shot  pistol  is  an  excellent  arm,  provided  one 
has  had  some  previous  experience  in  its  use. 
It  is  not  a  burden  on  the  belt,  and  a  handful  of 
cartridges  in  the  pocket  are  not  noticed. 

Pack  your  cartridges  in  a  strong  canvas  bag, 
your  gun  grease  and  accessories  in  another  re- 
ceptacle. 

On  the  belt  also  carry  a  broad-pointed  four- 
inch  blade  skinning  knife  of  the  ordinary 
butcher  knife  shape.  This  will  be  your  table 
knife,  as  well  as  cooking  and  general  utility 
knife. 

In  the    pocket  carry    a    stout  jackknife,    a 


PERSONAL  EQUIPMENT         29 

waterproof  matchbox,  always  kept  well  filled, 
and  a  compass. 

A  film  camera  is  more  practical  for  the  trail 
than  a  plate  camera  for  many  reasons,  one  of 
which  is  weight.  Plates  are  heavy  and  easily 
broken.  It  is  well  to  have  each  roll  of  films 
put  up  separately  in  a  sealed,  water-tight  tin. 
Dealers  will  supply  them  thus  at  five  cents  ex- 
tra for  each  film  roll.  A  waterproof  pantasote 
case,  too,  is  better  than  leather,  for  leather  in  a 
long-continued  rain  will  become  watersoaked, 
as  before  stated. 

If  a  plate  camera  is  carried  the  plates  may 
be  packed  in  a  small  light  wooden  box — a 
starch  box,  for  instance.  The  box  will  protect 
them  under  ordinary  circumstances.  Film  rolls, 
however,  may  be  carried  in  a  small  canvas  bag 
that  will  slip  into  one  of  the  larger  waterproof 
bags. 

My  object  in  outlining  outfit  is  rather  to  em- 
phasize the  possibilities  of  selecting  a  light  and 
efficient  outfit  that  may  be  easily  packed  and 
transported  on  the  trail,  than  to  evolve  an  in- 
fallible check  list;  therefore  I  shall  not  attempt 
to  name  in  detail  toilet  articles,  tobacco  and 
odds  and  ends.  Take  nothing,  however,  save 
those  things  you  will  surely  find  occasion  to 
use,  unless  I  may  suggest  an  extra  pipe,  should 
your  pipe  be  lost.  A  small  balloon  silk  bag  will 


30      PACKING  AND  PORTAGING 

hold  them,  together  with  a  sewing  case  contain- 
ing needles,  thread,  patches  and  some  safety 
pins.  Another  will  hold  the  hand  towels  and 
hand  soap  in  daily  use,  while  an  extra  hand 
towel  may  be  stowed  in  your  duffle  bag. 

In  concluding  this  chapter  it  may  be  perti- 
nent to  say  that  the  novice  on  the  trail  is  pretty 
certain  to  burden  himself  with  many  things  he 
will  seldom  or  never  use.  Take  your  outfitter 
into  your  confidence.  Tell  him  what  sort  of  a 
trip  you  contemplate  and  he  will  advise  you. 
First-class  outfitters  are  usually  practical  out- 
of-door  men  and  camping  experts.  They  have 
made  an  extended  study  of  the  subject,  for  it 
is  part  of  their  business  to  do  so.  Therefore, 
in  selecting  outfit,  it  is  both  safe  and  wise  to 
rely  upon  the  advice  of  any  responsible  out- 
fitter. 


CHAPTER  V 

FOOD 

THE  true  wilderness  voyager  is  willing  to 
endure  some  discomforts  on  the  trail, 
to  work  hard  and  submit  to  black  flies 
and  other  pests,  but  as  a  reward  he  usually  de- 
mands satisfying  meals.  There  is,  indeed,  no 
reason  for  him  to  deny  himself  a  variety  and 
a  plenty,  unless  his  trip  is  to  extend  into  months. 
Weight  on  the  portage  trail  is  always  the  con- 
sideration that  cuts  down  the  ration.  •  Packing 
on  one's  back  a  ration  to  be  used  two  or  three 
months  hence  is  discouraging. 

I  have  evolved  a  two-week  food  supply  for 
two  men,  based  upon  the  United  States  army 
ration,  varied  as  the  result  of  my  own  experi- 
ences have  dictated.  It  offers  not  only  great 
variety,  but  is  an  exceedingly  bountiful  ration 
even  for  hungry  men.  Personal  taste  will  sug- 
gest some  eliminations  or  substitutions  that 
may  be  made  without  material  loss  or  change  in 
weight.  If  there  is  certainty  of  catching  fish 
or  killing  game,  or  if  opportunity  offers  for 
purchasing  fresh  supplies  along  the  trail,  re- 

31 


32       PACKING  AND  PORTAGING 

ductions  in  quantity  may  be  made  accordingly. 
For  each  additional  man,  or  for  any  period  be- 
yond two  weeks,  a  proportionate  increase  in 
quantity  may  be  made, 

Bacon,  6  pounds. 

Salt  fat  pork,  2.  pounds. 

Ham  or  canned  meats,  5  pounds. 

"Truegg"    (egg    powder),    i    pound    (equals    4    dozen 
eggs.) 

"Trucream"    (milk  powder),    \y2   pounds. 

"  Crisco,"  3  pounds,  (2  cans). 

Fresh  bread,  2  pounds. 

Flour,  12  pounds. 

Corn  meal   (yellow),  I  pound. 

Rolled  oats,  I  pound. 

Rice,  i  pound. 

Baking  powder,  y2  pound. 

Potatoes   (Dehydrated)    riced,  2  pounds   (equals  14  Ibs. 
fresh  potatoes). 

Potatoes    (Dehydrated)    sliced,    i   pound    (equals  7   Ibs. 
fresh  potatoes). 

Carrots    (Dehydrated),    a/4    pound    (equals   3   Ibs.    fresh 
carrots). 

Onions   (Dehydrated),  YA  pound    (equals  3-34  Ibs.  fresh 
onions). 

Cranberries    (Dehydrated),    ^    pound    (equals   2y2   qts. 
fresh  fruit). 

Beans,  2  pounds. 

Green   peas    (Dehydrated),    K    pound    (equals    1%    1 
fresh  peas). 

Coffee  (ground),  2  pounds. 

Tea,  Yz  pound. 

Cocoa,  Yz  pound. 

Sugar  (granulated),  5  pounds. 

Preserves,  I  pound. 

Lemons,  Y*  dozen. 

Lime  tablets,  Y*  pound. 

Prunes    (stoned),  I  pound. 

Raisins,  i  pound. 

Salt,  i  pound. 

Pepper,  %  ounce. 

This  gives   each  man  a   nominal   ration   of 


FOOD  33 

'14  1-2  pounds  a  week,  or  about  two  pounds 
a  day.  In  reality,  however,  it  is  more  bountiful 
than  the  summer  garrison  ration  and  far  more 
liberal  than  the  summer  marching  ration  of  the 
army.  This  is  brought  about  by  the  pretty 
general  elimination  of  water,  largely  through 
the  substitution  of  dehydrated  vegetables  and 
fruits  for  fresh  and  canned  goods.  The  de- 
hydrated products  designated  are  in  every  par- 
ticular equal  to  fresh  products  and  far  superior 
to  canned  goods.  Dehydrated  vegetables 
possess  all  the  qualities,  in  fact,  of  fresh  vege- 
tables, with  only  the  large  percentage  of  water 
removed.  Water  is  introduced  restoring  them 
to  original  form  usually  by  boiling.  No  chemi- 
cal is  used  as  a  preservative  as  is  the  case  with 
all  dried  vegetables  put  up  by  foreign  manu- 
facturers. 

.  It  will  be  noticed  that  butter  has  been  omit- 
ted and  that  "  Crisco  "  has  been  introduced  in 
the  place  of  lard  and  to  be  used  in  cooking  in- 
stead of  butter.  Crisco  is  a  product  of  edible 
vegetable  oils.  It  has  the  appearance  of  lard 
but  can  be  heated  to  a  much  higher  temperature 
without  burning,  is  fully  equal  to  butter  when 
used  as  shortening,  and  dough  bread,  fish  or 
other  articles  of  food  fried  in  it  will  not  ab- 
sorb it  so  readily  as  they  will  lard,  nor  will  it 
transmit  the  flavor  of  one  food  to  another.  For 


34      PACKING  AND  PORTAGING 

example,  fish  may  be  fried  in  Crisco,  and  dough 
bread  or  anything  else  fried  in  the  same  Crisco 
will  have  not  the  slightest  flavor  of  fish.  It 
will  keep  fresh  and  sweet  under  conditions  that 
turn  lard  and  butter  rancid.  Butter  quickly 
becomes  strong,  and  the  heat  of  the  sun  keeps 
it  in  an  oily,  unpalatable  condition,  even  when 
packed  in  air-tight  tins.  The  most  lavish  user 
of  butter  will  discover  that  it  is  no  hardship  to 
go  without  it  when  in  camp.  Crisco,  put  up 
in  handy,  friction-top  cans,  can  be  purchased 
from  nearly  any  grocer. 

Coffee  should  be  carried  in  friction-top  tins. 
On  extended  trips  coffee  is  too  bulky  to  carry 
save  as  a  special  treat.  A  pound  of  tea  will  go 
as  far  as  many  pounds  of  coffee;  therefore  on 
trips  extending  beyond  three  or  four  weeks  the 
proportion  of  tea  should  be  increased  and  that 
of  coffee  diminished.  On  short  trips,  however, 
such  as  we  are  discussing,  there  is  no  reason 
and  most  Americans  usually  prefer  it  even 
when  in  camp. 

Each  article  of  food  should  have  its  individ- 
ual bag,  to  fit  into  one  of  the  larger  waterproof 
canvas  bags  described,  though  the  bacon  and 
fat  pork,  each  piece  wrapped  in  paraffin 
(waxed)  paper,  may  be  packed  in  one  bag. 
Paraffin  paper  will  protect  other  packages  in 
the  bag  from  grease.  Several  articles  of  small 


FOOD  35 

bulk  and  weight  such  as  dehydrated  carrots, 
onions,  cranberries  and  green  peas  each  in  its 
original  package  or  a  small  muslin  bag  suit- 
able in  size  may  be  carried  in  a  single  balloon 
silk  bag.  The  small  bags  containing  such  ar- 
ticles as  are  not  in  daily  and  frequent  use  should 
be  stowed  in  the  bottoms  of  the  canvas  bags, 
while  those  in  constant  demand  should  be  at  the 
top  where  they  can  be  had  without  unpacking 
the  entire  bag.  Every  package  or  bag  should 
be  plainly  labeled  with  the  nature  of  its  con- 
tents. In  labeling  them  use  ink,  as  pencil  marks 
are  too  easily  obliterated.  Where  a  party  is 
composed  of  a  sufficient  number  of  people  to 
make  it  worth  while  the  party  ration  for  each 
day  may  be  weighed  out  and  packed  in  a  sepa- 
rate receptacle,  thus  making  seven  food  pack- 
ages for  each  week.  This,  however,  would 
be  obviously  unpractical  where  there  are  less 
than  eight  or  ten  members  of  the  party. 

No  glass  or  crockeryware  should  be  used, 
not  only  because  of  its  liability  to  break,  but 
because  of  its  unnecessary  weight. 

A  good  way  to  carry  the  tin  of  baking  pow- 
der is  to  sink  it  into  the  sack  of  flour.  The 
flour  will  protect  it  and  preclude  the  possibility 
of  the  cover  coming  off  and  the  contents  spill- 
ing out.  Do  not  carry  prepared  or  self-raising 
flour  on  the  trail.  For  many  reasons  it  is  un- 


36      PACKING  AND  PORTAGING 

practical  for  trail  use,  though  perhaps  most  ex- 
cellent in  the  kitchen  at  home. 

Throughout  I  have  accentuated  the  advis- 
ability of  waterproof  covers  for  everything. 
Every  ounce  of  water  absorbed  by  tent,  bags, 
or  package  covers,  adds  to  the  tedium  of  the 
trail  by  so  much  unnecessary  weight.  When 
flour  carried  in  an  ordinary  sack  is  exposed  to 
rain  a  paste  will  form  next  the  cloth,  and  pres- 
ently harden  into  a  crust  that  will  protect  the 
bulk  of  flour  from  injury.  But  the  flour  used 
up  in  the  process  of  crust  forming  is  a  decided 
waste,  and  the  paste,  retaining  a  degree  of 
moisture,  increases  weight. 

I  have  suggested  balloon  silk  for  the  small 
food  bags  to  fit  into  the  larger  waterproofed 
canvas  bags,  not  only  because  it  does  not  ab- 
sorb moisture,  but  because  there  will  be  no  pos- 
sibility of  the  contents  sifting  through  the 
cloth.  If  these  or  the  cloth  from  which  to 
make  them  cannot  be  readily  obtained,  closely 
woven  muslin  will  do. 

Should  the  canoeist  desire  to  make  his  own 
bags  and  should  he  not  find  it  convenient  to  pur- 
chase waterproofed  canvas,  the  ordinary  can- 
vas which  he  will  use  may  be  waterproofed  by 
the  following  process : 

In  two  gallons  of  boiling  water  dissolve  three 
and  one-half  ounces  of  alum.  Rain  water  is 


FOOD  37 

best,  though  any  soft  water  will  do;  but  it 
must  be  soft  water  to  obtain  the  best  results. 
In  another  vessel  dissolve  four  ounces  of  sugar 
of  lead  in  two  gallons  of  soft  water.  Unite  the 
solutions  when  they  have  cleared  by  pouring 
into  another  vessel  No.  i  first,  then  No.  2. 
Let  the  solution  stand  over  night,  decant  it  into 
a  tub,  free  of  any  sediment  that  may  have 
settled,  and  it  is  ready  for  the  canvas.  The 
cloth  should  be  put  into  the  solution,  thor- 
oughly saturated  with  it  and  then  lightly 
wrung  out,  and  hung  up  to  dry.  This  treat- 
ment will  render  canvas  to  a  considerable  ex- 
tent, though  not  completely,  waterproof. 

Muslin  for  the  smaller  food  bags  may  be 
waterproofed  by  painting  it  with  a  saturate  so- 
lution of  turpentine  and  paraffin. 

Canned  goods  should  be  packed  snugly  in 
canvas  bags,  with  cans  on  end,  that  the  sides, 
not  the  corners  or  edges,  will  rest  against  the 
back  in  portaging. 

Camp  chests  in  which  to  store  food  or  other 
articles  are  carried  by  some  canoeists,  but  they 
add  considerable  weight  to  the  outfit.  The 
best  and  most  serviceable  camp  chest  is  one  of 
indestructible  fiber.  One  with  an  inside  meas- 
urement of  1 8  x  24  x  12  inches  weighs  twenty 
pounds. 


CHAPTER  VI 

THE  PORTAGE 

THERE  are  several   types    of  pack  har- 
ness offered  by  outfitters,  but  it  is  gen- 
erally conceded  that  the  best  method  of 
carrying  heavy  or  medium-weight  packs  is  with 
the  tump  line.     In  tump  line  carrying  the  pack 
is  supported  by  a  broad  band  of  leather  passed 
across  the  head — high  up  on  the  forehead— 
thus  throwing  the  weight  upon  the  strong  mus- 
cles of  the  neck,  with  no  shoulder  straps  or 
other  support 

Canadian  voyageurs,  Hudson's  Bay  Com- 
pany packers  and  Indians  use  the  tump  line  to 
the  exclusion  of  all  shoulder-carrying  devices. 
Indeed,  by  no  other  method  would  it  be  pos- 
sible for  them  to  transport  upon  their  backs 
through  a  rough  country  the  heavy  turdens 
which  they  are  called  upon  to  carry.  Experi- 
enced packers  with  the  tump  line  will  some- 
times portage  loads  of  upwards  of  four  hun- 
dred pounds.  In  tests  of  skill  I  have  seen  a 
man  carry  in  a  single  load  the  contents  of  three 
barrels  of  flour — 588  pounds. 

38 


THE  PORTAGE  39 

The  tump  line  consists  of  a  broad  piece  of 
leather  some  eighteen  or  twenty  inches  in 
length  (known  as  the  head  strap  or  head- 
piece), with  a  leather  thong  usually  about  seven 
feet  in  length  attached  to  each  end,  the  total 
length  from  the  tip  end  of  one  thong  to  the  tip 
end  of  the  other  thong  averaging  about  sixteen 
feet. 

Sometimes  the  two  thongs  are  sewn  to  the 
headpiece,  and  again  the  line  is  a  single  strip  of 
leather,  broadened  in  the  center  to  form  the 
headpiece.  The  best  tump  lines,  however,  have 
the  head  strap  as  a  separate  piece  with  a  buckle 
at  each  end  by  which  the  thongs  are  attached. 
This  arrangement  admits  of  adjustment,  if 
necessary,  to  suit  the  individual  after  the  pack 
has  been  made  up. 

There  is  a  knack  in  tump  line  carrying,  but 
the  following  directions  for  making  up  various 
packs  will  give  the  novice  sufficient  insight,  with 
a  little  experience,  to  enable  him  to  acquire  the 
art. 

When  the  pack  is  to  He  made  up  wholly  of 
bags,  lay  the  tump  line  on  the  ground  with  the 
thongs  parallel  to  each  other  and  from  sixteen 
to  twenty  inches  apart,  depending  upon  the 
length  of  the  bags  to  be  packed.  Place  the 
bags  across  the  thongs,  one  bag  upon  another, 
taking  care  that  the  thongs  are  not  so  near  the 


40      PACKING  AND  PORTAGING 

ends  of  the  bags  as  to  render  them  liable  to 
slip  off  when  the  pack  is  tied.  Now  lift  the 
head  strap  above  the  top  bag  and  secure  the 
pack  by  drawing  the  loose  end  of  each  thong 
in  turn  tight  around  the  bags  and  knotting  it  a 
few  inches  below  the  buckle  that  attaches  its 
other  end  to  the  headpiece. 

When  a  pack  cloth  is  to  be  used,  spread  the 
pack  cloth  upon  the  thongs  of  the  tump  line, 
stretched  upon  the  ground  in  the  manner  above 
described,  and  in  the  center  of  the  pack  cloth 
lay  folded  blankets  and  other  articles  to  be 
packed,  making  the  pile  about  two  feet  long, 
and  taking  care  that  hard  substances  are  in  the 
center,  with  blankets  and  soft  things  outside. 
Now  turn  the  sides  of  the  pack  cloth  over  the 
pack  and  fold  over  the  ends.  If  a  bag  is  to  be 
included,  lay  it  upon  the  pack  after  the  cloth 
has  been  folded,  and  secure  the  whole  as  in 
the  former  case. 

Another  method  of  making  up  a  pack  with 
the  pack  cloth,  common  among  Canadian  voy- 
ageurs,  is  as  follows:  Spread  the  cloth  upon 
the  ground,  and  lay  the  tump  line  across  it,  the 
headpiece  near  one  end  and  the  thongs  a  foot 
from  the  sides.  Fold  the  sides  of  the  cloth  in- 
ward over  each  thong.  Now  build  up  the  pack 
in  a  neat  pile  about  two  feet  long  on  the  folded 
cloth,  taking  care  as  before  that  hard  things 


THE  PORTAGE  41 

are  placed  in  the  middle.  Fold  the  end  of  the 
pack  cloth  with  protruding  thongs  over  the 
pack,  take  a  half  turn  with  the  loose  end  of  a 
thong  around  the  other  end  near  the  headpiece, 
draw  it  tight  until  the  end  is  closely  puckered, 
then  knot  it  and  draw  up  the  other  thong  and 
secure  it  in  like  manner.  Now  bring  the  free 
ends  of  the  tump  line  to  center  of  pack,  on  top, 
cross  them  and  pass  them  around  middle  of 
pack  and  tie. 

The  knack  of  comfortable  tump  line  carry- 
ing once  the  neck  muscles  have  become  de- 
veloped and  hardened  to  the  work  is  in  prop- 
erly balancing  the  pack.  With  the  headpiece 
resting  high  up  upon  the  forehead  the  pack 
should  hang  with  its  bottom  no  lower  than  the 
hips.  Neither  should  it  be  too  high.  A  little 
experimenting  will  teach  just  where  the  proper 
balance  is  to  be  found.  If  it  is  too  high, 
lengthen  the  line,  or  if  too  low  shorten  it  by 
means  of  the  buckles  which  attach  the  thongs 
to  the  headpiece. 

Experienced  packers  pile  additional  bags  or 
bundles  on  top  of  the  pack,  the  uppermost 
bundle  standing  higher  than  the  head.  In  my 
own  experience  I  have  found  that  an  additional 
bag  thus  placed  upon  the  pack  and  resting 
against  the  back  of  my  neck  helped  balance  the 
load.  My  favorite  bag  for  this  purpose  is  a 


42       PACKING  AND  PORTAGING 

forty  or  fifty  pound  bag  of  flour,  sometimes 
surmounted  by  a  lighter  bundle  which  rested 
partly  upon  the  flour  and  partly  upon  my  head. 

The  tenderfoot  will  be  quite  content  to  limit 
his  early  loads  to  sixty  or  seventy  pounds,  and 
even  then  his  first  portages  will  not  be  what  he 
can  conscientiously  term  experiences  of  unal- 
loyed joy.  Gradually,  however,  he  will  learn 
the  knack  of  tump  packing  and  at  the  end  of  a 
couple  of  weeks  of  daily  experience  will  find 
himself  able  to  negotiate  a  load  of  one  hundred 
pounds  with  some  ease. 

All  the  various  types  of  pack  harness  are 
supplied  with  straps  by  which  the  pack  is  se- 
cured and  loops  through  which  to  slip  the  arms, 
the  pack  being  carried  from  the  shoulders  in- 
stead of  the  head.  With  this  sort  of  a  pack, 
as  with  the  tump  line,  care  should  be  given  to 
the  proper  adjustment,  with  the  bottom  of  the 
pack  no  lower  than  the  hips.  Fifty  pounds  is 
about  as  heavy  a  load  as  one  can  comfortably 
carry  from  the  shoulders. 

Outfitters  sometimes  attach  a  headpiece  to 
their  pack  harness — that  is  to  say  the  harness 
is  provided  with  both  shoulder  loops  and  tump 
line  head  strap.  The  object  is  to  secure  a  di- 
vision of  weight  between  shoulders  and  head. 
This  is  a  method  employed  by  Eskimos  when 
hunting  without  dogs.  The  Eskimo  hunter 


THE  PORTAGE  43 

binds  his  pack  with  sealskin  thongs,  and  manip- 
ulates a  single  thong  in  such  a  manner  as  not 
only  to  secure  the  pack  but  to  form  arm  loops 
and  headpiece  as  well. 

No  matter  what  type  of  shoulder  harness  is 
employed,  a  breast  strap  must  be  used  to  fasten 
together  the  arm  loops  in  front  or  the  loops 
will  have  a  continual  tendency  to  slip  backward 
and  off  the  shoulders.  This  breast  strap  fastens 
the  packer  so  securely  to  his  pack  that  should 
he  slip,  as  is  sometimes  likely,  the  pack  will 
carry  him  down  with  it  and  the  probability  of 
injury  is  multiplied  many  times.  This  alone  is 
a  very  decided  objection  to  all  forms  of  pack 
harness. 

If  one  slips  with  a  tump  line,  on  the  contrary, 
a  slight  twist  of  the  head  will  disengage  and 
free  one  from  the  pack;  and  if  one  is  hunting 
the  tump  pack  may  readily  be  dropped  at  a  mo- 
ment's notice,  should  game  be  sighted. 

Let  me  therefore  urge  the  adoption  of  the 
tump  line  for  all  portage  work  where  fifty 
pounds  or  more  must  be  transported.  No  ex- 
perienced packer  will  use  harness.  Harness 
packing  is  indeed  indicative  of  the  tenderfoot 
who  has  never  learned  how,  unless  on  long 
cross  country  tramps  with  light  loads. 

But  on  a  canoe  trip,  if  one  would  make  pro- 
gress, big  loads  must  be  resorted  to.  For  in- 


44      PACKING  AND  PORTAGING 

stance,  if  the  canoeist  has  a  two  mile  portage  to 
negotiate  and  one  hundred  pounds  of  duffle  he 
has  but  two  miles  to  walk  if  he  carries  all  his 
duffle  at  once,  but  if  he  makes  two  loads  of  it 
he  must  walk  six  miles.  With  the  hundred 
pound  load  the  portage  may  easily  be  covered 
in  one  hour.  With  fifty  pound  loads  three 
hours  will  be  consumed,  for  there  will  be  time 
lost  in  making  up  the  second  pack. 

Axes,  guns  and  extra  paddles  may  be  thrust 
under  the  thongs  of  the  tump  line,  or  carried 
in  the  hand.  Never  portage  a  rifle  with  a  cart- 
ridge in  the  chamber,  and  never  portage  a 
loaded  shotgun.  To  disregard  this  advice  will 
be  to  take  an  unnecessary  and  foolhardy  risk. 

Save  in  a  rather  stiff  breeze,  one  man  can 
carry  a  canoe  weighing  less  than  one  hundred 
pounds  nearly  as  easily  as  two  can  carry  it. 
There  is  one  best  way  of  doing  everything,  and 
the  best  and  most  practical  way  to  carry  a  canoe 
is  the  Indian's  way. 

Tie  one  end  of  a  stout  string  or  thong  se- 
curely to  the  middle  thwart  close  to  the  gun- 
wale, and  the  other  end  to  the  same  thwart 
close  to  the  opposite  gunwale  with  the  string 
stretched  taut  from  end  to  end  of  the  thwart 
and  on  top  of  it.  Slip  the  blades  of  two  pad- 
dles, lying  side  by  side,  under  the  string,  the 
paddle  handles  lying  on  the  forward  thwart. 


THE  PORTAGE  45 

With  the  handles  as  close  together  as  they  will 
lie,  bind  them  with  a  piece  of  rope  or  thong  to 
the  center  of  the  forward  thwart. 

Spread  the  blades  upon  the  middle  thwart 
sufficiently  wide  apart  to  admit  your  head  be- 
tween them.  Take  a  position  on  the  left  side 
of  the  canoe  facing  the  stern.  Just  forward  of 
the  middle  thwart  grasp  the  gunwale  on  the  op- 
posite or  right  side  of  the  canoe  in  your  left 
hand  and  the  gunwale  on  the  near  or  left  side 
in  your  right  hand,  and,  lifting  the  canoe  over 
your  head,  let  the  flat  side  of  the  paddles  di- 
rectly forward  of  the  middle  thwart  rest  upon 
the  shoulders,  your  head  between  them.  It  will 
be  found  that  though  you  faced  the  stern  in 
lifting  the  canoe  you  are  now  facing  the  bow, 
and  with  the  bow  slightly  elevated  the  canoe 
can  be  carried  with  ease  and  a  view  of  the  trail 
ahead  will  not  be  shut  out. 

Should  the  flat  paddle  blades  resting  upon 
the  shoulders  be  found  uncomfortable,  as  they 
doubtless  will  at  the  end  of  the  first  two  or 
three  hundred  yards,  a  Pontiac  shirt  or  sweater 
will  serve  as  a  protecting  pad. 

Outfitters  offer  for  sale  yokes,  pneumatic 
pads  and  contrivances  of  various  sorts  as  pro- 
tections for  the  shoulders,  but  these  contriv- 
ances elevate  the  canoe  from  two  to  four  inches 
above  the  shoulders  and  this  increases  the  diffi- 


46       PACKING  AND  PORTAGING 

culty  of  steadying  it  on  rough  trail.  The 
sweater  or  Pontiac  shirt  eases  the  cutting  effect 
of  the  paddles  just  as  well  as  any  of  the  special 
portaging  pads,  and  the  canoe  can  be  handled 
more  easily  with  it.  Besides  it  makes  one  less 
thing  to  look  after. 

In  a  strong  breeze  it  is  often  difficult  for  one 
man  to  handle  a  canoe,  for  the  wind  striking  it 
on  the  side  will  turn  the  portager  around  and 
he  will  find  it  impossible  to  keep  his  course  in 
spite  of  his  best  efforts.  If  the  portage  is  a 
short  one — -two  or  three  hundreds  yards — the 
canoe  may  be  carried  very  well,  one  man  with 
the  bow  the  other  with  the  stern  upon  a 
shoulder,  the  canoe  on  its  side  with  the  bottom 
next  the  portagers'  heads,  that  they  may  easily 
grasp  the  gunwale  in  one  hand  and  steady  the 
canoe  with  the  other. 

This  position  will  soon  be  found  exceedingly 
tiresome,  and  on  portages  exceeding  two  or 
three  hundred  yards  the  paddles  should  be  ar- 
ranged with  the  blades  on  the  after  thwart  and 
the  handles  lashed  to  the  center  of  the  middle 
thwart.  With  this  arrangement  one  man  car- 
ries exactly  as  when  portaging  the  canoe  alone, 
save  that  he  stands  under  the  canoe  just  for- 
ward of  the  after  thwart  instead  of  the  middle 
thwart,  while  the  other  man  carries  the  bow 


THE  PORTAGE  47 

upon  one  shoulder.  This  is  the  easiest  method 
of  two-man  portaging  of  which  I  know. 

Many  odds  aiid  ends  may  be  tucked  in  the 
canoe  on  the  portage — fishing  rods,  for  ex- 
ample, in  cases,  with  one  end  stuck  in  the  bow 
and  the  other  end  tied  to  the  forward  thwart. 

Should  a  canvas  canoe  become  punctured  it 
may  be  repaired  by  one  of  the  following 
methods : 

If  a  stick  of  canoe  cement  is  in  the  outfit, 
heat  the  cement  with  a  match  and  smear  it 
over  the  puncture. 

Should  the  outfit  contain  a  canoe  repair  kit, 
cut  a  patch  of  canvas  somewhat  larger  than  the 
puncture,  apply  a  coat  of  white  lead  to  the 
puncture  and  over  a  marginal  space  as  large 
as  the  canvas  patch,  press  the  patch  firmly  and 
evenly  upon  the  white  lead  and  tack  it  down 
with  copper  tacks.  To  this  apply  calor,  and 
when  dry  complete  the  repairs  with  a  coat  of 
varnish. 

Should  marine  glue  be  used,  lay  a  sheet  of  it 
over  the  puncture,  heat  the  bottom  of  a  cup  or 
some  other  smooth  metal  utensil  and  rub  it 
over  the  glue  until  the  glue  melts  sufficiently  to 
fill  the  puncture. 

In  a  region  where  spruce  gum  can  be  had, 
melt  a  quantity  of  gum  in  a  frying  pan  with 


48      PACKING  AND  FOR  T AGING 

sufficient  grease  to  take  from  the  gum  its  brit- 
tle quality  when  cold.  While  hot  pour  the 
gum  upon  the  rupture,  letting  it  run  well  into 
the  opening  and  smearing  it  s.noothly  over  the 
outside. 

"Peterborough"  canoes  are  also  easily  re- 
paired with  marine  glue  or  gum. 

In  loading  the  canoe  place  the  heavier  bags 
in  the  bottom  and  middle  of  the  canoe,  taking 
care  so  to  distribute  the  weight  that  when  fully 
loaded  the  canoe  will  lie  on  an  even  keel. 
Keep  the  load  always  as  low  down  as  possible. 
Every  bag  rising  above  the  gunwales  offers  re- 
sistance to  the  wind,  and  tends  to  make  the 
load  topheavy.  When  but  one  man  occupies  a 
canoe,  however,  sufficient  weight  should  be  car- 
ried forward  to  counterbalance  his  weight  in 
the  stern. 

Lash  everything  fast,  particularly  in  rough 
water  or  when  running  rapids.  It  does  not  pay 
to  take  chances.  With  a  companion  I  was  once 
turned  over  in  a  rapid  in  an  unexplored, 
sparsely  timbered  wilderness  several  hundred 
miles  from  the  nearest  base  of  supplies — a 
Hudson's  Bay  trading  post.  Nearly  all  our 
food  was  lost,  as  well  as  guns,  axes,  cooking 
utensils  and  many  other  necessities  of  travel. 
The  temperature  stood  close  to  zero,  snow  cov- 
ered the  ground  and  during  the  greater  part  of 


THE  PORTAGE  49 

the  three  weeks  occupied  in  reaching  the  post 
we  had  to  dig  driftwood  from  under  the  snow, 
and  our  ingenuity  was  taxed  at  times  to  the 
utmost  in  efforts  to  protect  ourselves  from  the 
elements  and  travel  with  any  degree  of  com- 
fort. Nothing  worse  than  an  unpleasant  duck- 
ing in  icy  waters  would  have  resulted  from  our 
accident  had  we  observed  the  rule  of  ordinary 
caution  and  lashed  our  outfit  to  the  thwarts. 

One  end  of  a  rope  tied  to  the  forward 
thwart,  the  other  end  threaded  through  bag 
handles  or  pack  lashings  and  secured  to  the  af- 
ter thwart,  will  do  the  trick.  A  short  strap, 
one  end  attached  to  a  thwart,  the  other  end  sup- 
plied with  a  snap  to  fasten  on  rifle  or  shotgun 
cases,  is  a  good  way  to  secure  the  guns  and 
still  have  them  readily  accessible. 

If  you  would  make  speed  be  smart  in  un- 
loading the  canoe  and  making  up  your  packs 
on  the  portage,  and  equally  smart  in  reloading 
the  canoe.  Delays  in  loading,  unloading  and 
making  up  packs  are  the  chief  causes  of  slow 
progress. 

When  it  is  found  necessary  to  "  track,"  give 
the  rear  end  of  the  tracking  line  a  turn  around 
the  forward  thwart,  on  the  land  side  of  the 
canoe,  then  pass  the  end  back  and  secure  it  to 
the  middle  thwart.  This  distributes  the  strain 
between  the  thwarts.  While  one  man  at  the 


50      PACKING  AND  PORTAGING 

farther  end  of  the  line  tows  the  canoe,  the 
other  man  with  a  pole  may  walk  upon  the  bank, 
and  keep  the  canoe  clear  of  snags,  if  the  water 
is  deep.  Should  the  water  be  shallow  it  will 
usually  be  found  necessary  for  him  to  wade 
and  guide  the  bow  through  open  channels. 


CHAPTER  VII 

TRAVEL  WITH  SADDLE  AND  PACK  ANIMALS 

UNDER  this  head  we  shall  consider :  ( i ) 
(2)  Saddles  and  pack  equipment;  (3) 
Animals  best  adapted  to  pack  work; 
Outfit  and  provisions  and  how  to  pack  them; 
(4)  How  to  throw  some  practical  hitches;  (5) 
Equipment  of  the  traveler  who  has  no  pack 
animal  and  whose  saddle  horse  is  required  to 
transport  both  rider  and  equipment. 

Comfort  on  the  trail  depends  to  a  very  large 
degree  upon  the  animals  of  the  outfit.  A  mean 
horse  is  an  abomination,  and  a  horse  may  be 
mean  in  many  respects.  A  bucking  horse,  a 
horse  that  shies  at  stumps  and  other  objects  or 
at  every  moving  thing,  or  one  that  is  frightened 
by  sudden  and  unexpected  sounds  is  not  only 
an  uncomfortable  but  unsafe  animal  to  ride 
upon  rugged  mountain  trails;  and  a  horse  that 
will  not  stand  without  hitching,  or  one  that  is 
hard  to  catch  when  hobbled  and  turned  loose, 
will  cause  no  end  of  trouble. 

In  choosing  a  horse,  then,  avoid  so  far  as 
possible  one  with  these  tendencies,  and  also  ob- 


52      PACKING  AND  PORTAGING 

serve  the  manner  in  which  he  handles  his  feet. 
He  should  not  be  subject  to  stumbling.  He 
should  be  sure-footed,  steady  and  reliable,  to 
qualify  him  for  work  on  dangerous  trails;  this 
is  of  the  first  importance.  A  horse  that  does 
not  keep  his  eyes  on  the  trail  and  select  his 
footing  with  care  is  wholly  unsuited  to  moun- 
tain work.  He  should  be  gunwise.  A  gun- 
wise  horse  will  not  be  easily  frightened  by  sud- 
den and  unexpected  noises. 

Whether  intended  for  mountain  or  plains 
work,  the  horse  should  be  a  good  camp  animal 
— that  is,  one  that  will  not  wander  far  from 
camp.  It  is  more  than  aggravating  to  find  upon 
arising  in  the  morning  that  your  horse  has  dis- 
appeared and  one  always  feels  that  time  con- 
sumed in  searching  for  a  roving  horse  is  time 
worse  than  wasted.  Of  course  this  tendency  of 
an  animal  can  be  forestalled  by  picketing  him, 
but  a  picketed  horse  unless  forage  be  particu- 
larly good  will  not  do  well,  for  it  rarely  hap- 
pens in  these  days  of  sheep-ravaged  ranges  that 
an  animal  can  find  sufficient  food  to  meet  his  re- 
quirements within  the  limited  length  of  a 
picket  rope. 

Some  horses  need  much  persuasion  before 
they  can  be  induced  to  ford  streams,  and  I  have 
had  them  lose  their  nerve  and  decline  the  de- 
scent of  precipitous  trails.  An  animal  possess- 


SADDLE  AND  PACK  ANIMALS     53 

ing  this  trait  of  timidity  is  not  suited  to  trail 
work,  for  he  is  likely  to  cause  trouble  at  a  criti- 
cal moment. 

Some  horses  are  good  foragers,  others  are 
not.  A  poor  forager  will  become  leg  weary 
and  break  down  much  more  quickly  than  the 
animal  that  takes  advantage  of  every  oppor- 
tunity to  graze  or  browse.  A  horse  just  in 
from  the  open  range  should  be  round  and  full- 
bellied.  This  is  an  indication  that  he  is  a  good 
feeder.  Generally  speaking  the  chunky  horse 
is  the  one  best  adapted  to  arduous  trail  work 
because  he  usually  possesses  greater  powers  of 
endurance  than  the  longer,  lankier  type. 

All  of  the  qualifications  above  enumerated 
should  be  borne  in  mind  in  selecting  animals, 
whether  for  saddle  or  pack  use.  And  of  course 
the  animals  should  be  as  sound  as  possible. 
One  should  never  start  upon  a  journey  with  an 
animal  that  is  lame  or  has  cinch  sores  or  galled 
back. 

When  mountain  trails  are  to  be  negotiated 
a  saddle  horse  weighing  from  nine  hundred  to 
a  thousand  pounds  will  be  found  better  adapted 
to  the  work  than  a  larger  animal.  Too  large  a 
horse  is  liable  to  be  clumsy  on  the  trail,  while 
too  light  a  horse  will  of  course  tire  under  a 
heavy  rider.  A  small  horse,  as  a  rule,  is  better 
able  to  forage  a  living  than  a  large  horse,  and 


54      PACKING  AND  PORTAGING 

for  this  reason  stands  up  better  with  a  moder- 
ate load  on  long,  continuous  journeys.  Ponies 
weighing  from  eight  hundred  to  eight  hundred 
and  fifty  pounds  will  pack  one  hundred  and 
fifty  pounds  easily,  and  ponies  of  this  size  make 
much  better  pack  animals  than  larger  ones. 

While  for  general  saddle  work  I  prefer  a 
horse,  a  mule  is  surer  footed  and  therefore 
preferable  on  precipitous,  narrow  mountain 
trails.  In  the  Sierra  Madres  of  Mexico  I  rode 
a  mule  over  trails  where  I  would  scarcely  have 
trusted  a  horse.  Good  saddle  mules,  however, 
are  scarce.  I  never  saw  a  really  good  saddle- 
broke  mule  north  of  Mexico,  though  they  are 
doubtless  to  be  had.  Mules  have  greater 
powers  of  endurance  than  horses,  and  for  many 
other  reasons  are  superior  as  pack  animals. 
The  chief  objection  to  a  mule  is  his  timidity 
upon  marshy  trails.  His  feet  are  much  smaller 
than  those  of  a  horse,  he  mires  easily,  and  he  is 
fully  aware  of  the  fact.  A  good  mule,  never- 
theless, is  the  one  best  all-around  pack  animal. 

Burros  are  good  where  forage  is  scarce,  but 
they  are  slow.  When  the  burro  decides  that  he 
has  done  a  day's  work  he  stops,  and  that  is  the 
end  of  it.  He  will  not  consult  you,  and  he  will 
not  take  your  advice.  When  he  fully  decides 
that  he  will  go  no  farther  you  may  as  well  un- 
pack and  make  camp  with  as  good  grace  as 


SADDLE  AND  PACK  ANIMALS     55 

you  can  muster,  and  keep  your  temper.  I  be- 
lieve that  burros  have  a  well-organized  labor 
union  and  they  will  not  do  one  stroke  of  work 
beyond  the  limit  prescribed  by  their  organiza- 
tion. But  one  must  sometimes  resort  to  them 
in  desert  travel.  They  will  pick  their  living  and 
thrive  on  sage  brush  wastes  where  other  ani- 
mals would  die,  and  their  ability  to  go  long 
without  water  is  truly  remarkable.  On  rough 
mountain  trails  they  are  even  more  sure-footed 
if  possible  than  mules,  but  like  the  mule  it  is 
difficult  to  force  them  over  marshes  or  into 
rivers  when  fording  is  necessary. 

In  horse-raising  localities  in  the  West  very 
good  horses  can  be  had  at  anywhere  from 
thirty  to  seventy-five  dollars.  The  usual  rate 
for  horse  rental  is  one  dollar  to  one  dollar  and 
a  half  a  day,  and  it  is  therefore  cheaper,  when 
the  journey  is  to  extend  to  a  month  or  more,  to 
purchase  the  animals  outright  and  sell  them 
when  you  are  finished  with  them  for  what  they 
will  bring.  Rented  animals  are  generally  ani- 
mals of  low  value  and  sometimes  not  very 
efficient,  and  in  the  course  of  a  month  one  pays 
in  rental  a  good  share  of  the  value  of  the  horse. 
The  risk  is  no  greater,  for  if  a  rented  horse  is 
injured  while  in  a  traveler's  possession,  the 
owner  holds  him  who  has  rented  the  animal  re- 
sponsible for  the  damage. 


CHAPTER  VIII 

SADDLE  AND  PACK  EQUIPMENT 

THE  riding  saddle  should  be  a  double 
cinch,  horn  saddle,  with  wool-lined 
skirts  and  of  ample  weight  to  hold  its 
position.  My  own  is  a  regular  stock  saddle 
weighing  thirty-five  pounds,  though  for  all  ordi- 
nary use  a  twenty-five-  or  thirty-pound  saddle 
will  do  just  as  well. 

I  prescribe  the  horn  saddle  because  of  its 
convenience.  One  may  sling  upon  it  a  camera, 
binoculars  or  other  articles  in  frequent  demand, 
and  when  it  becomes  necessary  to  lead  a  pack 
pony  the  lead  rope  may  be  attached  to  it.  For 
this  latter  purpose  the  horn  is  indeed  indispen- 
sable. 

In  the  light  of  personal  experience  with  both 
single  and  double  cinch  saddles,  I  recommend 
the  latter  unhesitatingly,  particularly  for  moun- 
tain work.  In  steep  ascents  or  descents  it  will 
not  slide,  while  a  single  cinch  saddle  is  certain 
to  do  so  no  matter  how  tightly  cinched,  and  this 
shifting  will  sooner  or  later  gall  the  horse's 

56 


SADDLE  AND  PACK  EQUIPMENT     57 

back.  In  Mexico  the  single  cinch  saddle  is  al- 
most universally  used,  but  who  ever  saw  a 
Mexican's  horse  that  was  free  from  saddle 
sores?  The  forward  cinch  should  preferably 
be  a  hair  cinch,  though  the  ordinary  webbed 
sort,  both  forward  and  rear,  does  well  enough. 

The  saddle  blanket  should  be  a  thick,  good 
quality  wool  blanket.  In  Arizona  Navajo  sad- 
dle blankets  are  popular,  and  they  are  un- 
doubtedly the  best  when  obtainable.  A  hair 
saddle  pad  or  corona,  shaped  to  the  animal's 
back  and  used  in  connection  with  the  blanket,  is 
a  pretty  good  insurance  against  galling,  and 
preferable  to  the  felt  pad,  for  it  is  cooler. 

A  leather  boot  for  rifle,  and  saddle  bags  for 
toilet  articles,  note  books  and  odds  and  ends, 
bridle,  halter  rope,  a  pair  of  cowboy  spurs  with 
large  blunt  rowels,  and  a  quirt  to  tickle  delin- 
quent pack  horses  will  be  needed.  The  rifle 
boot  has  two  sling  straps.  The  usual  method 
of  carrying  it  is  to  insert  it  between  the  stirrup 
leathers  on  the  near  side,  drop  the  sling  strap 
at  the  top  of  the  boot  over  the  saddle  pommel 
and  buckle  the  sling  strap  at  the  bottom  of  the 
boot  into  the  rear  latigo  ring.  By  detaching 
the  latter  sling  from  the  boot  before  buckling 
it  to  the  ring,  the  boot  may  be  removed  from 
or  attached  to  the  saddle  by  simply  lifting  the 
forward  sling  strap  over  the  pommel,  without 


58       PACKING  AND  PORTAGING 

unbuckling.  In  case  the  sling  strap  at  the  top 
of  the  boot  be  placed  too  far  down,  it  should 
be  shifted  higher  up  and  secured  to  the  boot 
with  a  leather  loop  which  may  be  riveted  to  the 
boot. 

For  the  pack  animals  the  ordinary  cross-tree 
or  sawbuck  pack  saddle 
is  the  most  practical 
pack  saddle  for  all- 
around  use,  though  the 
aparejo,  used  by  the 
army  and  generally 
throughout  Mexico,  is 
superior  to  the  saw- 
b  u  c  k  when  unwieldy 
packages  of  irregular 
size  and  shape  are  to 
be  transported.  Such 
packages  must  frequent- 
ly be  transported  by 
army  trains  and  they 
are  the  rule  rather 
than  the  exception  in 
Mexico,  where  freight- 
ing throughout  wide 
regions  must  be  done 
>n  the  backs  of 


c 

METHOD  OF  SUNGING  LOAD 

ON  APAREJO 

(FiG.  i.)  Rope  is  doubl- 
ed and  loop  A  thrown  over 
horse's  back  to  off  side. 


is  represented  as  spread  out  animals, 
flat  and  viewed  from  above. 


SADDLE  AND  PACK  EQUIPMENT    59 

The  aparejo  is  of  Arabian  origin,  and  the 
Spaniards,  who  adopted  it  from  the  Moors,  in- 
troduced it  into  Mexico.  In  Mexico  there  are 
two  types  of  the  aparejo  in  common  use.  One 
made  usually  of  the  fiber  of  henequen,  which  is 


(FiG.  2.)  Packs  are  now  lifted  into 
place  and  off  packer  brings  loop  A  up 
around  off  side  pack  to  top  of  load. 
Near  packer  passes  end  B  through  loop 
A  and  ties  ends  B  and  C  together  with 
square  knot.  Balance  or  "  break "  the 
packs  and  load  is  ready  for  hitch. 

woven    into    pockets  which    are  stuffed    with 
grass,  to  form  the  pads,  is  used  on  donkeys  in 


60      PACKING  AND  PORTAGING 

comparatively  light  packing;  in  the  other  type 
the  pad  casing  is  made  of  Mexican  tanned 
leather  instead  of  henequen  matting  but  also 
stuffed  with  grass.  This  is  used  in  heavier 
packing  with  mules,  in  transporting  machinery 
and  supplies  to  mines  and  merchandise  to  in- 
land settlements. 

The  cross-tree  or  sawbuck,  however,  is  used 
almost  exclusively  in  the  United  States  by  for- 
est rangers,  cowboys,  prospectors  and  pack 
travelers  generally,  and  it  is  to  this  type  of 
pack  saddle  that  we  shall  direct  our  attention 
chiefly.  It  may  be  interesting  to  note  that  this 
is  a  very  ancient  type  of  pack  saddle,  of  Asi- 
atic origin.  It  consists  of  two  saddle  boards 
connected  near  each  end — front  and  rear — by 
two  cross-pieces,  the  pommel  and  cantle  form- 
ing a  miniature  sawbuck,  while  the  saddle 
boards  are  similar  in  shape  to  the  McClellan 
saddle  tree.  This  is  fitted  with  breeching,  quar- 
ter straps,  breast  strap,  latigos  and  cinch.  As 
in  the  case  of  the  riding  saddle,  the  sawbuck 
pack  saddle  should  be  supplied  with  the  double 
cinch.  Care  should  be  taken  that  the  saddle 
fits  the  animal  for  which  intended.  A  saddle 
either  too  wide  or  too  narrow  will  be  certain  to 
cause  a  sore  back. 

Each  pack  saddle  should  be  accompanied  by 
a  heavy  woolen  saddle  blanket,  which  should  be 


SADDLE  AND  PACK  EQUIPMENT    61 

folded  into  three  or  four  thicknesses,  for  here 
even  greater  protection  is  necessary  than  with 
the  riding  saddle,  for  the  animal  is  to  carry  a 
dead  weight. 

The  preferable  method  of  carrying  supplies 
with  the  sawbuck  pack  saddle  is  with  kyacks, 
basket  panniers  or  the  alforjas,  though  with 
sling  and  lash  ropes  any  sort  of  a  bundle  may 
be  slung  upon  it. 

When  they  can  be  obtained,  kyacks  of  inde- 
structible fiber  stand  first  for  preference. 
These  are  usually  from  twenty-two  to  twenty- 
four  inches  wide,  seventeen  or  eighteen  inches 
high  and  about  nine  inches  deep,  and  are  fitted 
with  heavy  leather  loops  for  slinging  on  the 
saddle.  Unless  the  horse  is  a  large  one,  the 
narrower,  or  twenty-two  inch,  should  be  se- 
lected. 

Basket  panniers  of  similar  size  are  lighter 
but  not  so  well  adapted  to  hard  usage,  and  are 
more  expensive. 

The  alforjas  is  constructed  of  heavy  duck 
and  leather,  and  of  the  same  dimensions  as  the 
kyack.  They  are  much  cheaper  than  either 
panniers  or  kyacks,  and  are  therefore  more 
commonly  used.  Any  outfitter  can  supply  them. 
They  are  slung  upon  the  saddle  in  the  same 
manner  as  kyacks.  A  pair  of  the  type  decided 
upon  will  be  required  for  each  animal. 


62      PACKING  AND  PORTAGING 

The  next  requirement  is  a  half-inch  lash 
rope.  This  should  be  at  least  thirty-three,  but 
preferably  forty  feet  in  length.  In  some  re- 
spects a  cotton  rope  is  preferable  to  one  of 
hemp,  though  the  latter  is  more  commonly 
used,  and  regulations  prescribe  it  for  army 
pack  trains. 

A  good  broad  cinch  should  be  provided, 
fitted  with  a  ring  on  one  end  to  which  is  at- 
tached the  lash  or  lair  rope  and  a  cinch  hook  on 
the  other  end. 

There  should  be  a  pair  of  hobbles  for  each 
animal,  and  a  blind  to  put  upon  obstreperous 
pack  animals  when  slinging  and  lashing  the 
load.  These  may  be  purchased  throughout  the 
West  at  almost  any  village  store.  It  is  well 
also  to  carry  a  bell,  which  should  always  be 
strapped  around  the  neck  of  one  of  the  horses 
when  the  animals  are  hobbled  and  turned  loose 
to  graze. 

It  will  sometimes  be  necessary  to  picket  one 
of  the  animals,  and  for  this  purpose  fifty  or 
sixty  feet  of  half  or  five-eighth  inch  rope  will 
be  required.  Also  sufficient  leading  rope  should 
be  provided  for  each  pack  animal,  and  a  halter 
rope  for  the  saddle  horse.  A  lariat  carried 
upon  the  saddle  pommel  will  be  found  useful  in 
a  dozen  ways,  and  may  be  utilized  for  picketing 
horses. 


SADDLE  AND  PACK  EQUIPMENT    63 

All  horses  should  be  "slick"  shod;  that  is, 
shod  with  uncalked  shoes.  The  shoes  should 
be  of  soft  iron,  not  so  light  as  to  render  them 
liable  to  bend  before  they  are  worn  out,  and 
they  should  not  extend  beyond  the  hoof  at  side 
or  rear.  Some  extra  shoes  of  proper  size  for 
each  animal,  a  horseshoer's  nippers,  rasp, 
hammer  and  some  nails  should  be  included  in 
the  equipment. 


CHAPTER  IX 

PERSONAL  OUTFIT  FOR  THE  SADDLE 

THE  outfit  recommended  in  Chapters  III 
and  IV  in  discussing  camp  and  personal 
equipment  for  canoe  trips  is,  with  the 
modifications  and  additions  which  we  shall  now 
consider,  equally  well  adapted  to  saddle  and 
pack  horse  travel.  As  previously  stated,  our 
object  is  to  describe  methods  of  packing,  rather 
than  to  formulate  an  infallible  check  list.  With 
this  in  view  an  efficient  outfit  that  may  be 
easily  packed  and  transported  is  outlined,  in  a 
general  way,  and  therefore  such  articles  of  out- 
fit mentioned  in  previous  chapters  as  are  ob- 
viously useful  only  in  canoe  travel  will  not  be 
referred  to  in  this  connection. 

The  wedge,  the  Hudson  Bay,  the  forest 
ranger  and  the  lean-to  tent  are  all  good  models 
for  pack  animal  travel,  and  easily  erected. 
Whichever  type  is  chosen,  if  made  of  any  one 
of  the  light-weight  materials  described,  will  be 
found  both  satisfactory  and  easily  packed.  For 
example,  a  forest  ranger's  tent  eight  feet  deep 

64 


PERSONAL    OUTFIT  65 

and  eight  feet  wide  weighs  less  than  four 
pounds,  while  a  lean-to  with  approximately  the 
same  floor  space  weighs  about  three  pounds.  In 
the  more  arid  regions  of  the  West  one  rarely 
finds  it  necessary  to  pitch  a  tent,  though  it  is 
handy  to  have  one  along  and  well  worth  carry- 
ing, particularly  should  it  be  desired  to  remain 
more  than  one  night  at  any  point. 

During  the  summer,  save  in  high  altitudes, 
one  pair  of  light  woolen  blankets  will  be  found 
ample  bedding.  For  all  probable  conditions 
of  weather,  however,  in  tent  or  in  the  open, 
the  sleeping  bag  is  the  most  convenient  and  at 
the  same  time  the  most  comfortable  camp  bed 
yet  devised,  and  it  is  so  easily  carried  on  the 
pack  horse  that  I  advise  its  adoption.  One 
made  of  close-woven  waterproofed  canvas  is 
the  most  thoroughly  practical  bag  for  general 
use.  This  should  be  lined  with  two  pairs  of 
light  blankets,  that  four  thicknesses  of  blanket 
may  be  available  for  covering.  The  blankets 
should  be  so  arranged  that  they  may  be  taken 
out  and  the  bag  turned  for  airing.  One  may 
adapt  such  a  bag  to  the  temperature,  using  as 
many  or  as  few  thicknesses  of  blanket  as  de- 
sired, depending  upon  the  number  with  which 
the  bag  is  lined.  I  recently  saw  a  bag  lined 
with  four  thicknesses  of  llama  wool  duffel 
(providing  two  thicknesses  for  cover)  that 


66      PACKING  AND  PORTAGING 

weighed  but  eight  pounds  and  furnished  ample 
protection  for  any  weather  down  to  a  zero 
temperature. 

Pack  cloths  or  light  tarpaulins  6x7  feet, 
used  to  cover  and  protect  the  packs,  will  be 
needed  for  each  pack  animal,  and  at  night  the 
bed  may  be  spread  upon  them.  Saddle  bags 
make  excellent  pillows. 

In  traveling  in  an  arid  region  canteens  are  a 
necessity.  There  should  be  one  large  one  for 
each  traveler  to  be  carried  on  the  pack  horse, 
and  a  small  one  swung  upon  the  saddle  horn 
will  be  found  convenient  for  ready  use. 

A  folding  water  bucket  of  waterproofed 
canvas  should  also  be  included  in  the  outfit. 

The  aluminum  reflecting  baker  which  has 
been  described  is  far  preferable  to  the  Dutch 
oven — a  heavy  iron  kettle  with  iron  cover — 
not  only  because  it  weighs  far  less  and  is  much 
more  easily  packed,  but  because  it  is  more  prac- 
tical. Westerners  are  wedded  to  the  Dutch 
oven,  and  this  reference  is  merely  made  as  a 
suggestion  in  case  the  question  of  choice  be- 
tween the  two  should  arise. 

If  kyacks  or  alforjas  are  used  the  large 
water-proofed  canvas  duffle  bags  and  food  bags 
will  not  be  required.  The  smaller  balloon  silk 
or  musline  food  bags,  however,  will  be  found 
fully  as  convenient  in  packing  in  the  pack  horse 


PERSONAL    OUTFIT  67 

kyack  as  in  the  canvas  bags  on  the  canoe  trip. 

Each  rider  should  be  provided  with  either 
a  saddle  slicker  or  a  poncho,  which  when  not 
in  use  may  be  rolled  and  secured  to  the  saddle 
directly  behind  the  seat  by  means  of  tie  strings 
attached  to  the  saddle.  A  poncho  is  prefer- 
able to  a  slicker,  because  of  the  many  uses  to 
which  it  may  be  put. 

On  saddle  journeys  in  cold,  windy  weather 
a  wind-proof  canvas  coat  or  a  large,  roomy 
buckskin  shirt  is  a  comfort.  If  a  buckskin 
shirt  is  adapted,  have  it  made  plain  without 
fringe  or  frill.  Wilderness  dwellers  formerly 
fringed  their  buckskin  shirts,  not  alone  for 
ornament,  but  to  facilitate  the  drying  of  the 
garment  when  wet.  In  the  fringed  shirt  water, 
instead  of  settling  around  the  bottom  of  the 
shirt,  around  the  yoke  and  the  seams  of  the 
sleeve,  will  drain  to  the  fringe  which  the  wind 
quickly  dries.  In  our  case,  however,  the  pon- 
cho will  protect  the  shirt  from  a  wetting. 

In  summer,  in  an  arid  or  desert  region  of 
the  Southwest,  athletic  summer  underwear  will 
be  found  entirely  satisfactory.  Whether  this 
or  light  wool  is  to  be  worn,  however,  will 
depend  entirely  upon  the  season  and  the  region 
to  be  visited. 

In  very  warm  weather  a  close-woven,  good 
quality  khaki  outer  shirt  is  both  comfortable 


68      PACKING  AND  PORTAGING 

and  practical;  but  on  chilly  autumn  days  a  flan- 
nel shirt  should  take  its  place — gray,  brown, 
blue — the  color  does  not  matter  so  long  as  it 
does  not  crock.  It  is  my  custom  to  have  one 
khaki  and  one  flannel  shirt  in  my  outfit. 

Trousers  should  be  of  heavy  khaki,  medium 
weight  moleskin,  or  other  strong  close-woven 
material.  Full-length  trousers,  with  reinforced 
seat,  are  preferable  in  some  respects  to  riding 
breeches,  and  may  be  worn  with  the  regulation 
United  States  cavalry  puttee  leggings  with 
shoes. 

Some  riders  prefer  top  boots,  such  as  Ari- 
zona cowboys  wear,  and  but  for  their  high 
heels  which  make  walking  uncomfortable  they 
would  be  admirable.  High-laced,  medium- 
weight  mountaineering  shoes  will  eliminate  the 
necessity  of  puttees,  and  many  prefer  them  to 
low-laced  shoes  and  puttees.  In  snowy,  cold 
weather  I  have  found  heavy  German  socks  and 
ordinary  shoes,  large  enough  to  avoid  the  pos- 
sibility of  pinching  the  feet,  admirable  foot- 
wear for  the  saddle.  But  whatever  is  decided 
upon,  extra  trousers,  extra  leggings  and  extra 
shoes  are  superfluous.  One  pair  of  each — the 
pair  worn — is  sufficient. 

The  hat  should  be  of  the  Western  style,  with 
broad  brim,  and  of  the  best  grade.  The  brims 
of  the  cheaper  ones  are  sure  to  sag  after  a  lit- 


PERSONAL    OUTFIT  69 

tie  wear  and  exposure  to  a  shower  or  two.  A 
good  reliable  hat  may  be  had  for  five  dollars 
that  will  stand  several  years  of  hard  wear  and 
may  be  renovated  when  soiled,  assuming  again 
the  freshness  of  a  new  hat.  I  have  one  for 
which  I  paid  fourteen  pesos  in  Monterey,  Mex- 
ico, in  1907.  I  have  worn  it  pretty  steadily 
since  in  camp  and  on  the  trail.  It  has  been 
twice  renovated,  and  to-day  so  nearly  resem- 
bles a  new  hat  that  I  am  not  ashamed  to  wear 
it  about  town. 

Heavy  gauntlet  buckskin  gloves  are  a  neces- 
sary protection,  not  only  against  cold  in  frosty 
weather,  but  against  brush  in  summer.  The 
regulation  United  States  cavalry  glove  is  the 
best  that  I  have  discovered  for  all-around  hard 
usage,  and  will  not  harden  after  a  wetting. 

The  saddle  rifle  should  be  short  and  light — 
not  over  twenty- four-inch  barrel,  and  not  above 
seven  pounds  in  weight.  A  revolver  is  never 
needed,  though  for  target  practice  one  offers 
a  means  of  amusement. 

Unless  going  into  permanent  camp  or  into 
an  isolated  region,  it  will  hardly  be  found  nec- 
e^sary  to  start  out  with  more  than  one  week's 
provisions.  Before  these  are  consumed  set- 
tlements will  be  reached,  where  fresh  supplies 
may  be  purchased.  It  is  well  to  have  along  a 
few  cans  of  baked  beans  and  corned  or  roast 


70      PACKING  AND  PORTAGING 

beef,  that  a  hasty  meal  may  be  prepared  when 
time  does  not  allow  a  sufficient  halt  to  permit 
the  preparation  of  uncooked  foods.  Two  or 
three  dozen  lemons  should  also  be  provided, 
particularly  in  summer,  and  in  more  or  less 
arid  regions. 

Provisions  and  general  outfit  should  be 
neatly  packed  in  small  bags,  and  evenly  dis- 
tributed in  the  kyacks. 


CHAPTER   X 

•ADJUSTING  THE  PACK 

IN  saddling  up,  be  sure  that  the  saddle 
blanket  is  folded  large  enough  to  protect 
the  horse's  sides  from  the  pack,  when  the 
pack  is  slung  into  place.  Otherwise  the  kyacks 
or  alforjas  will  be  liable  with  constant  chafing 
when  the  horse  is  in  motion  to  cause  sores.  Not 
only  where  the  saddle  rests  upon  the  blanket 
but  where  the  pack  rests  upon  the  horse's  sides 
there  should  be  sufficient  thicknesses  of  blan- 
ket to  overcome  friction,  and  this  demands  a 
greater  thickness  than  under  the  riding  saddle, 
for  the  pack  load  is  a  dead  load.  After  the 
pack  saddle  is  thrown  into  place,  and  before 
cinching  it,  ease  the  blanket  by  pulling  it  up 
slightly  under  the  center  of  the  saddle — along 
the  backbone  of  the  animal.  This  will  over- 
come the  tendency  of  the  blanket  to  draw  down 
and  bind  the  horse's  back  too  tightly  when  the 
saddle  is  cinched  and  the  pack  in  place. 

When  packing  the  kyacks  or  alforjas  par- 
ticular care  should  be  taken  to  have  the  pair 


72      PACKING   AND    PORTAGING 

for  each  horse  evenly  balanced  as  to  weight. 
If  the  load  swung  on  one  side  of  the  horse  is 
heavier  than  that  on  the  opposite  side,  there 
will  be  a  continual  drawing  down  of  the  pack 
saddle  on  the  heavier  side,  resulting  almost 
certainly  in  injury  to  the  animal.  Inattention 
or  willful  carelessless  on  the  part  of  packers  in 
balancing  the  pack  is  five  times  out  of  six  the 
cause  which  leads  to  sore-backed  pack  animals. 

If  two  or  more  pack  animals  are  used,  let 
such  provisions  and  utensils  as  are  In  constant 
use  and  will  be  needed  at  once  by  the  cook,  be 
packed  on  one  animal.  Hobbles  and  bell 
should  also  be  carried  on  this  animal.  This 
will  be  the  first  animal  unpacked,  and  while  the 
other  animals  are  being  unpacked  the  cook  may 
get  busy,  and  the  packer  will  have  hobbles  and 
bell  at  hand  to  immediately  attach  to  the  ani- 
mals. 

Attached  to  each  end  of  the  kyacks  and 
alforjas  is  a  leathern  loop  or  sling  strap.  By 
means  of  these  loops  kyacks  and  alforjas  are 
hung  to  the  saddle,  one  loop  fitting  over  the 
forward,  the  other  over  the  rear  cruz,  or  fork. 
The  kyacks  should  be  so  adjusted  as  to  hang 
evenly  one  with  the  other.  That  is  to  say,  one 
kyack  should  hang  no  lower  upon  the  animal's 
side  than  the  other,  and  both  should  hang  as 
high  as  possible. 


ADJUSTING    THE  PACK          73 

The  kyacks  in  place,  hobbles,  bell,  and  such 
odds  and  ends  as  it  may  not  be  convenient  to 
pack  in  the  kyack,  may  be  laid  on  the  center 
between  the  crosstrees  and  on  top  of  the  kyack, 
and  over  all  smoothly  folded  blankets,  sleeping 
bags,  or  tent,  care  being  exercised  to  keep  the 
pack  as  low  and  smooth  as  possible.  Every- 
thing carefully  placed  and  adjusted,  cover  the 
pack  with  the  pack  cloth  or  tarpaulin,  folded  to 
proper  size  to  protect  the  whole  pack,  but  with 
no  loose  ends  extending  beyond  it  to  catch  upon 
brush  or  other  obstructions.  If  inconvenient 
to  include  within  the  pack,  the  cooking  outfit 
in  its  canvas  case  may  be  lashed  to  the  top 
of  pack  after  the  final  hitch  has  been  tied. 
All  is  ready  now  for  the  hitch  that  is  to  bind 
the  pack  into  place. 

Frequently  the  traveler  is  not  provided  with 
either  kyacks  or  alforjas,  and  it  becomes  neces- 
sary to  pack  the  load  without  the  convenience 
of  these  receptacles.  Before  considering  the 
hitches,  therefore,  let  us  describe  methods  of 
slinging  the  load  in  such  cases  upon  the  cross- 
tree  saddle. 

The  load  which  is  to  be  slung  from  the 
crosstree  should  be  arranged  in  two  compact 
packages  of  equal  weight,  one  for  each  side  of 
the  animal.  Boxes  may  be  used,  but  large, 
strong  sacks  are  preferable.  The  large  can- 


74      PACKING  AND  PORTAGING 

vas  duffle  bags,  described  in  the  chapter  on 
canoe  outfitting,  are  well  adapted  to  the  pur- 
pose. 


SLING  FOR  PACKING  ON  CROSSTREE 
A  is  forward  cruz,  B  rear  cruz  of  saddle.     CC  are  loops 
which  support  packages.    D  and  E  are  ends  or  hauling 
parts  of  rope. 

Take  the  sling  rope,  and,  standing  on  the 
near  side,  throw  one  end  over  the  horse's  neck 
just  forward  of  the  saddle.  Now  at  about 
the  middle  of  the  rope  form  two  half  hitches, 
or  a  clove  hitch,  on  the  forward  cruz  or  fork 
of  the  saddle. 

With  the  free  end  of  the  rope  on  the  near 
side  form  a  half  hitch  on  the  rear  cruz,  allow- 
ing sufficient  loop  between  the  forward  and 
rear  cruz  to  receive  the  side  pack,  with  the 


ADJUSTING    THE  PACK          75 

free  end  of  the  rope  falling  under  the  loop. 
Now  go  to  the  off  side  and  arrange  the  rope 
on  that  side  in  similar  manner. 

Lift  the  offside  pack  into  position  with  its 
forward  end  even  with  the  forward  fork,  lift- 
ing the  pack  well  up  to  the  forks.  Hold  the 
pack  in  position  with  the  palm  of  the  right  hand 
against  the  center  of  the  pack,  and  with  the  left 
hand  pass  the  loop  along  the  lower  side  of  the 
pack,  drawing  in  the  slack  with  the  free  end 
of  the  rope,  which  passes  around  the  rear  fork 
and  under  the  center  of  the  pack.  With  the 
pack  drawn  snugly  in  position,  take  a  turn 
with  the  free  end  of  the  rope  around  the  rope 
along  the  side  of  the  pack.  This  will  hold 
the  pack  in  position.  Tie  a  bowline  knot  in 
the  end  of  rope,  and  at  proper  length  for  the 
bowline  loop  to  reach  the  center  and  top  of 
pack.  Place  loop  where  it  may  be  easily 
reached  from  the  near  side. 

Now  pass  to  the  near  side  and  sling  the  near 
pack  in  exactly  similar  manner,  save  that  no 
bowline  knot  is  to  be  formed.  Reach  up  and 
slip  the  end  of  the  near  rope,  which  you  are 
holding,  through  the  bowline  loop,  draw  tight 
and  tie. 

The  following  is  another  method  of  slinging 
packs,  frequently  used  by  forest  rangers: 

Throw  the  rope  across  the  horse  directly  in 


76      PACKING  AND  PORTAGING 

front  of  the  saddle,  and  as  in  the  previous 
method  form  two  half  hitches  with  the  rope 
at  its  middle  on  the  front  fork,  but  in  this  case 
permitting  the  ends  to  lie  on  the  ground  on 
either  side  the  horse.  Place  the  near  pack  in 
position  and  against  the  lower  rope,  and  hold- 
ing it  with  one  hand,  bring  the  rope  up  and 
over  the  pack  with  the  other  hand  and  throw 
a  half  hitch  around  the  forward  fork,  keeping 
the  free  end  of  the  rope  under.  Draw  the 
rope  taut,  lifting  the  pack  well  up.  Pass  the 
running  rope  back  and  throw  a  half  hitch 
around  the  rear  fork,  the  loose  or  running  end 
of  the  rope  on  the  under  side,  as  when  form- 
ing the  half  hitch  on  the  front  fork.  Now 
pass  the  running  rope  from  under  over  the 
pack  at  the  rear,  throw  a  half  hitch  over  the 
rear  fork,  take  up  all  slack,  bring  the  loose 
end  under  and  around  the  two  ropes  at  their 
intersection  between  pack  and  rear  fork,  and 
tie  securely.  The  pack  on  off  side  is  slung  in 
similar  manner. 

Most  mules,  and  not  infrequently  horses  as 
well,  have  a  constitutional  dislike  to  receiving 
the  pack.  If  your  pack  animal  displays  any 
such  tendency  adjust  the  blind  over  his  eyes 
and  let  it  remain  there  until  the  hitch  is  thrown 
and  the  load  tightened  and  secured.  The  blind 
is  usually  an  effective  quieter. 


CHAPTER   XI 

SOME  PRACTICAL  HITCHES 

WHETHER  the  load  is  made  up  with 
kyacks,   alforjas,   or  separate  packs 
slung  to  the  crosstree  saddle  as  de- 
scribed in  the  preceding  chapter  it  must  be  se- 
cured   in    place.     For    this    purpose    various 
hitches  are   employed  by  packers,   each  hitch 
well  adapted  to  the  particular  conditions  which 
evolved  it. 

Our  description  will  be  confined  to  the  fol- 
lowing six  hitches,  which  furnish  ample  vari- 
ety to  suit  the  exigencies  of  ordinary  circum- 
stances: 

(1)  The  crosstree  or  squaw  hitch,   which 
is  the  father  of  all  hitches  because  from  it  the 
diamond,   the  double  diamond   and  all  pack- 
train  hitches  in  present-day  use  were  evolved. 

(2)  A  diamond  hitch,  adapted  to  the  cross- 
tree  pack  saddle.     This  is  a  form  of  single 
'diamond. 

(3)  The  United  States  army  diamond  par- 
ticularly adapted  for  use  with  the  aparejo.  The 
true  double  diamond  is  a  hitch  rarely  called  for 

77 


78      PACKING   AND    PORTAGING 

save  in  army  work  or  freighting  pack  trains, 
and  will  therefore  be  omitted.  There  are  sev- 
eral so-called  double  diamonds  that  might  be 
described,  but  these  near-double  diamonds  pos- 
sess little  or  no  advantage  over  the  single  dia- 
mond, and  we  shall  pass  them  over  as  they  are 
scarcely  resorted  to  in  ordinary  pack  work. 

(4)  The  one-man  or  lifting  hitch. 

(5)  The  stirrup  hitch,  to  be  used  when  the 
packer  has  rope  but  no  cinch. 

(6)  The  saddle  hitch,  employed  in  slinging 
loads  upon  an  ordinary  riding  saddle. 

(7)  The  hitch  for  packing  a  sick  or  injured 
man. 

THE  CROSSTREE   HITCH 

This  hitch  was  introduced  into  the  North- 
west by  the  early  fur  traders  and  adopted  by 
the  Indians.  Among  Indians,  women  are  the 
laborers,  and  the  crosstree  hitch  being  the  hitch 
almost  exclusively  employed  by  the  squaws  was 
presently  dubbed  by  white  men  the  "  squaw 
hitch."  It  is  a  hitch  very  generally  used  by 
prospectors,  and  for  this  reason  is  known  in 
some  localities  as  the  "  prospector's  hitch." 
In  other  sections  of  the  West,  where  sheep 
herders  commonly  use  it,  it  is  locally  called 
the  "  sheep  herder's  hitch."  It  is  a  hitch 


SOME   PRACTICAL   HITCHES    79 

easily  thrown  by  one  man,  holds  well,  and  is 
therefore  a  favorite. 

With  lash   rope   attached  to  cinch,   take  a 


SQUAW  OR  CROSSTREE  HITCH 
(FiG.  i.)     Rope  engaged  on  cinch  hook  and  bight  of  rope 
running  from  rear  forward  under  standing  rope. 


(FiG.  2.)     Loop  of  bight  enlarged,  reversed  and  passed 
around  bottom  and  lower  corners  of  off  side  pack. 

position  on  the  near  side  of  the  animal  facing 
the  pack.     Throw  the  cinch  over  the  top  and 


80      PACKING  AND  PORTAGING 


(FiG.  3).  Hitch  formed  and  ready  to  tighten.  I.  Stand- 
ing rope.  2.  Running  rope.  3.  Rear  rope — off  side.  4. 
Front  rope — off  side.  5.  Front  rope — near  side.  6.  Rear 
rope— near  side.  7.  Marker. 

center  of  pack  in  such  manner  as  to  be  easily 
reached  under  the  horse's  belly.  Pick  up  cinch 
and  engage  the  rope  from  in  out  upon  the 
hook.  Draw  up  slack,  taking  care  that  the 
cinch  rests  properly  upon  the  horse's  belly. 
Grasp  the  running  and  standing  rope  in  left 
hand  above  the  hook,  to  hold  slack,  and  with 
the  right  hand  double  the  running  rope  and 
thrust  the  doubled  portion  under  the  standing 
rope  from  rear  forward  in  a  bight,  at  top  of 
pack.  Enlarge  the  loop  of  the  bight  by  draw- 
ing through  enough  slack  rope  to  make  the  loop 
of  sufficient  size  to  be  passed  over  and  around 
the  off  side  kyack  or  pack.  Step  to  off  side, 
turn  loop  over,  and  engage  it  around  the  ends 
and  bottom  of  kyack,  from  front  to  rear.  Re- 


SOME  PRACTICAL  HITCHES    81 

turn  to  near  side,  and  pass  the  loose  end  of 
running  rope  around  the  forward  end,  bottom 
and  finally  rear  end  of  kyack.  Draw  the  rope 
end,  from  above  down,  over  and  under  the 
standing  rear  and  running  ropes,  at  the  top  and 
center  of  the  load,  and  the  hitch  is  ready  to 
tighten. 

To  tighten  the  hitch,  grasp  the  running  rope 
a  little  above  the  cinch  hook,  and  pull  with  all 
your  strength,  taking  up  every  inch  of  slack 
possible.  Retain  this  slack  by  holding  the 
standing  and  running  rope  together  with  left 
hand,  while  with  the  right  hand  you  reach  to 
top  of  load  and  pull  up  slack  where  running 
rope  passes  under  standing  rope.  Go  to  off 
side  and  draw  in  all  slack,  following  the  rope 
around  off  side  pack.  Retaining  slack,  return 
to  near  side,  and  still  following  rope  and  tak- 
ing up  slack  around  front  to  rear  of  near  side 
pack,  grasp  end  of  rope,  already  engaged  as 
directed  over  and  under  standing  rear  and 
running  rope,  pull  hard,  bracing  a  foot  against 
pack,  and  tie.  Two  men,  one  on  each  side  of 
the  horse,  can,  of  course,  throw  the  hitch  and 
tighten  the  load  much  more  quickly  than  one. 
Tightening  the  load  is  just  as  important  a  fea- 
ture of  packing  as  evenly  balancing  the  packs. 
The  result  of  an  improperly  tightened  load 
will  pretty  certainly  be  a  sore-backed  horse. 


82      PACKING   AND   PORTAGING 


THE  CROSSTREE  DIAMOND  HITCH 

Take  position  on  the  near  side  of  horse,  as 
when  forming  the  crosstree  hitch,  and  throw 
cinch  over  horse,  engaging  it  on  hook  and  ad- 
justing it  in  exactly  similar  manner.  Take  in 


(FiG.  i.)  A  turn  is  here  taken  around  standing  rope 
with  loop  of  bight  of  running  rope  thrust  under  standing 
rope  from  rear  to  front,  as  in  Fig.  I,  illustrating  Squaw 
Hitch. 

slack  and  retain  it  by  grasping  the  standing 
and  running  ropes  in  left  hand.  Double  run- 
ning rope  and  thrust  doubled  portion  under 
standing  rope  in  a  bight,  from  rear  forward 
at  top  and  center  of  load.  Take  up  all  slack. 
Enlarge  loop  of  bight  by  drawing  through 
enough  running  rope  to  form  a  diamond  of 
sufficient  size  to  hold  top  of  load.  Now  bring 
center  of  loop  over  and  under  standing  rope, 
from  rear  forward,  thus  giving  rope  at  each 


SOME  PRACTICAL  HITCHES    83 

side  of  loop  a  complete  turn  around  standing 
rope.  Throw  the  disengaged  portion  of  run- 
ning rope  to  off  side  of  horse,  and  passing  to 
the  off  side,  bringing  the  rope  down  along  rear, 
bottom,  and  up  front  of  kyack,  thrust  loose 
rope  end  up  through  loop  at  top  of  pack. 
Take  in  slack  and  return  to  near  side  of  horse. 
Engage  running  rope  around  front,  bottom  and 
rear  end  of  near  side  kyack  or  pack,  and  thrust 


CROSSTREE  DIAMOND  HITCH 
(FiG.  2.)     Hitch  formed  ready  to  tighten. 

rope  end  over  and  under  standing  rope  oppo- 
site center  of  loop.  Take  up  slack  and  load  in 
ready  to  tighten. 

Tighten  load  by  grasping  running  rope  above 
hook  and  drawing  as  tight  as  possible.  Hold 
slack  with  left  hand,  gripping  running  and 
standing  rope,  and  take  up  slack  at  loop  with 
right  hand.  Pass  to  off  side  and  take  up  slack 


84      PACKING  AND  PORTAGING 

and  tighten  rear  to  front  around  kyack.  Pass 
to  near  side,  tightening  front  to  rear;  finally, 
bracing  a  foot  against  the  load  pull  on  loose 
end,  and  retaining  all  slack  make  final  tie. 

The  above  described  "  diamond "  hitch  is 
not  the  true  diamond  employed  by  government 
pack  trains  where  the  aparejo  is  used,  but  it  is 
a  diamond  evolved  from  the  crosstree  hitch, 
and  is  particularly  well  adapted  to  the  cross- 
tree  or  sawbuck  pack  saddle,  is  easily  formed, 
and  holds  the  load  securely,  which  is  the  ulti- 
mate object  of  all  hitches. 

THE    UNITED    STATES    ARMY    DIAMOND    HITCH 

The  single  diamond  hitch  employed  by  army 
packers  is  the  ideal  hitch  for  securing  a  load 
upon  an  aparejo.  This  is  a  two-man  hitch, 
though  an  expert  can  throw  it  alone.* 

One  packer  takes  his  position  on  the  off  side 
of  the  animal,  while  the  other  with  the  coiled 
lash  rope,  cinch  attached,  remains  on  the  near 
side. 

The  near  packer,  retaining  the  cinch,  throws 
the  coiled  rope  over  the  horse's  haunch,  to  rear. 
The  off  packer  picks  up  end  of  rope,  and  re- 
ceiving the  hook  end  of  cinch,  passed  to  him 
under  horse's  belly  by  near  packer,  holds  it 


SOME   PRACTICAL   HITCHES     85 

UNITED  STATES  ARMY  DIAMOND  HITCH 

Figures  represent  successive  stages  in  formation. 
Near  side  towards  right  in  each  case.  Line  PP  in  Fig.  I 
represents  horse's  back,  AA  (Fig  3)  standing  part  of 
rope,  and  Ai  (Fig.  2)  the  running  rope. 


X^ 

LI    mm 

NKAK 

Sfoe. 

^ 

FJ 

FIG.  i. 


FIG.  2. 


FIG.  3. 


86      TACKING   AND    PORTAGING 


FIG.  4. 


FIG.  5. 


FIG.  6. 

together  with  end  of  rope  in  his  left  hand,  and 
stands  erect. 

The  near  packer,  taking  a  position  at  the 
horse's  neck,  grasps  the  rope  about  six  feet 
from  cinch,  and  with  an  upward  and  backward 
motion,  drops  it  between  the  two  packs,  one 
slung  on  either  side  of  the  aparejo. 


SOME   PRACTICAL   HITCHES     87 

Still  grasping  the  rope  in  his  right  hand  just 
forward  of  the  packs  at  the  top,  he  pulls  for- 
ward between  the  packs  sufficient  running  rope 
to  permit  him  to  bring  his  hand  down  to  his 
side.  Retaining  the  rope  in  his  right  hand 
he  now  reaches  up  with  his  left  hand,  and 
with  back  of  hand  up  and  thumb  under 
grasps  running  rope  and  draws  sufficient  rope 
forward  to  permit  the  left  hand  grasping  the 
rope  to  come  down  to  his  side,  arm's  length. 

With  the  right  elbow  crooked  the  right  hand, 
still  holding  the  rope,  is  brought  up  about  on 
a  level  with  the  chin,  and  the  left  hand,  also 
retaining  its  hold  on  the  rope,  thumb  down,  is 
raised  to  hollow  of  the  right  arm,  with  loop  of 
rope  between  the  hands  lying  outside  the  right 
arm.  Now  by  a  single  swinging  motion  with 
both  hands  the  rope  in  the  right  hand,  called 
the  "  standing  rope,"  is  thrown  over  the  cen- 
ter of  pack  to  the  off  packer  who  stands  ready 
to  receive  it;  and  the  rope  held  in  the  left  hand, 
called  the  "  running  rope,"  over  the  horse's 
neck,  forward  of  the  pack. 

The  off  packer,  still  standing  with  cinch  hook 
and  end  of  rope  in  left  hand,  with  his  right 
hand  graps  the  standing  rope  as  it  comes  over 
as  high  up  as  he  can  conveniently  reach,  draws 
it  down,  and  holding  the  cinch  hook  in  proper 


88       PACKING  AND  PORTAGING 

position  below  the  aparejo  draws  down  the 
standing  rope  and  engages  it  upon  the  hook 
from  in  out. 

The  near  packer  now  draws  forward  between 
the  packs  about  six  feet  more  rope,  which  he 
throws  to  the  rear  of  the  near  side  pack.  This 
rope  is  now  called  the  "  rear  "  rope.  He  next 
grasps  the  running  rope  at  the  horse's  neck, 
and  with  the  off  packer's  assistance  releases  that 
portion  of  the  running  rope  lying  between  the 
packs  forward  of  the  standing  rope,  and  brings 
it  to  the  center  of  pack  on  near  side,  next  to  and 
just  back  of  the  standing  rope. 

He  now  slips  his  right  hand  down  the  rope 
to  a  point  half  way  between  pack  and  aparejo 
boot,  and  with  the  left  hand  reaches  from  for- 
ward between  standing  rope  and  aparejo  and 
grasps  the  rope  just  above  the  right  hand.  Both 
hands  are  now  slipped  down  the  rope,  and  with 
the  same  motion  drawn  apart,  one  on  each  side 
of  standing  rope  (under  which  the  rope  being 
manipulated  passes)  to  the  cinches.  With  the 
hands  about  ten  inches  apart,  the  section  of  rope 
betwee  nthem,  which  is  held  in  a  horizontal 
position,  is  jammed  down  between  the  two 
cinches  under  the  aparejo. 

The  off  packer,  holding  the  running  rope 
with  his  right  hand  above  the  hook,  places  the 
left  hand  holding  end  of  rope  on  top  of  running 


SOME   PRACTICAL   HITCHES     89 

rope  between  his  right  hand  and  the  hook,  and 
with  thumb  under  running  rope  grasps  both 
ropes  and  slips  his  hands  up  on  running  rope, 
bringing  it  to  center  of  load. 

He  now  draws  the  end  of  the  rope,  held  by 
left  hand,  forward  until  a  foot  or  so  falls  upon 
the  near  side  of  the  horse's  neck.  The  hitch 
is  now  formed,  ready  to  tighten. 

To  tighten,  the  near  packer  with  his  left 
palm  passing  the  side  and  center  of  the  pack 
grasps  the  running  rope  at  the  rear  of  the  stand- 
ing rope,  at  the  same  time  bringing  the  running 
rope  between  the  thumb  and  index  finger  of  the 
left  hand,  which  he  is  using  as  a  brace.  In  this 
position  he  is  prepared  to  hold  slack  as  it  is 
given  him  by  the  off  packer. 

The  off  packer  grasps  the  running  rope  close 
down  to  the  hook,  and,  bracing  himself  with  a 
knee  against  the  aparejo  boot,  pulls  with  all  his 
might,  taking  two  or  more  pulls,  if  necessary, 
and  giving  slack  to  near  packer,  until  no  more 
slack  can  be  taken  on  standing  rope.  He  now 
steps  smartly  to  rear  and  throws  the  top  rope 
forward  of  the  pack.  The  top  rope  is  the  rope 
leading  up  from  the  rear  corner  of  the  aparejo 
boot  on  near  side  to  the  side  and  center  of  off 
side  pack.  After  it  is  thrown  forward  it  is 
called  the  "  front  "  rope.  He  now  prepares  to 
receive  slack  from  near  packer  by  grasping  the 


90      PACKING  AND  PORTAGING 

rear   rope   where   it   lies   between   the  packs. 

The  near  packer,  who  has  been  receiving  the 
slack  given  him  by  the  off  packer,  carries  his 
right  hand,  with  which  he  holds  the  slack  at 
rear  of  standing  rope,  to  lower  side  of  pack 
toward  the  aparejo,  and  reaches  under  standing 
rope,  with  left  hand  grasps  rope  above  right 
hand,  drawing  it  forward  under  standing  rope, 
and  employing  both  hands  jams  it  upward  in  a 
bight  between  standing  rope  and  pack,  Care 
should  be  taken  during  this  operation  to  retain 
all  slack. 

The  near  packer  now  engages  around  front 
boot  of  aparejo  the  free  portion  of  the  running 
rope  below  the  bight  just  formed.  Holding 
slack  with  left  hand,  he  graps  the  rope  to  rear 
of  cinch  in  right  hand;  receiving  slack  from  left 
hand  he  brings  rope  to  rear  of  aparejo  boot, 
and  with  both  hands  carries  rope  smartly  to 
upper  corner  of  side  pack,  always  retaining 
slack.  The  off  packer  receives  slack,  pulling  it 
in  quickly  hand  over  hand,  the  near  packer  re- 
taining his  hold  until  the  off  packer  has  the  rope 
taut.  The  near  packer  now  takes  a  position 
at  the  forward  end  of  load,  facing  the  rear,  and 
grasps  end  of  rope  prepared  to  take  slack  from 
off  packer. 

The  off  packer,  after  receiving  slack  from 
near  packer  as  described  takes  a  turn  of  the 


SOME   PRACTICAL   HITCHES    91 

rope  around  each  hand,  holding  every  inch  of 
slack,  steps  to  the  rear,  keeping  in  line  with 
the  horse's  body,  and  then  facing  forward 
throws  his  full  weight  back  upon  the  rope.  Re- 
taining the  slack  with  his  left  hand,  with  his 
right  hand  he  brings  the  free  portion  of  run- 
ning rope  under  and  arcund  the  aparejo  boot, 
from  rear  to  front,  passes  forward  of  rope,  and 
facing  the  rear  and  grasping  rope,  right  hand 
above  the  left,  brings  it  smartly  to  upper  corner 
of  pack. 

The  near  packer,  holding  end  of  rope,  imme- 
diately draws  in  slack  until  he  has  about  six 
feet  of  free  rope,  which  he  throws  over  center 
of  load  to  off  side,  and  then  drawing  in  all  re- 
maining slack  takes  a  turn  of  rope  around  each 
hand  and  throws  his  weight  upon  it,  and  the  off 
packer  releases  his  hold. 

Holding  the  slack  with  the  left  hand,  the 
near  packer  releases  his  right  hand  and  with 
it  engages  the  free  or  running  portion  of  rope 
under  and  around  the  aparejo  boot  to  rear 
of  load,  while  the  off  packer  steps  to  rear  of 
load,  takes  end  of  rope,  and  while  he  draws 
in  all  slack,  neatly  coils  rope,  holding  coil  in 
right  hand  at  lower  side  of  pack,  and,  with  palm 
of  left  hand  braced  against  center  of  load,  re- 
ceives slack  from  near  packer. 

Grasping  in  his  left  hand  the  taut  rope  above 


92      PACKING  AND  PORTAGING 

the  coils,  and  lifting  it  sufficiently  above  the 
load  to  admit  the  coiled  rope  under  it,  he  swings 
the  coils  with  his  right  hand  from  rear  to  front 
to  top  of  load  and  brings  the  standing  rope 
held  in  his  left  hand  down  on  top  of  the  coils 
to  hold  them.  He  now  takes  a  loop  of  the 
rope,  forces  it  between  standing  rope  and  pack, 
in  a  bight,  and  takes  a  turn  of  the  loop  around 
standing  and  running  rope  to  secure  it,  first 
joining  the  loop  well  up,  and  the  hitch  is  tight- 
ened. 

THE   ONE-MAN  OR  LIFTING   HITCH 

This  is  a  pretty  good  hitch  sometimes  where 
kyacks  are  not  used  and  an  irregular  pack  is 
swung  upon  the  crosstree.  While  it  holds  the 
pack  very  securely  to  the  animal's  back,  its 
tendency  is  to  lift  the  corners  that  might  cause 
friction  upon  the  horse's  sides. 

Standing  on  the  near  side  of  the  horse,  throw 
cinch  over  the  horse's  back,  pick  up  cinch  and 
engage  rope  upon  cinch  hook,  from  in  out,  as 
in  previous  hitches.  Take  up  slack,  bring  run- 
ning rope  up  side  of  pack,  double  and  thrust 
loop  or  bight  under  standing  rope  from  rear 
forward  at  top  of  pack,  to  hold  slack.  Throw 
all  loose  rope  to  off  side,  and  pass  around  to 
off  side  yourself. 


SOME  PRACTICAL   HITCHES    93 


(FiG  I.)     A — Cinch  D — Running  rope 

C — Standing  rope     E — Front  rope 
B— Cinch  hook         F— Marker 


LIFTING  HITCH 

(FiG.  2.)  Grasp  loop  A  in  left  hand  and  with  right 
jam  rope  C  C  along  and  under  rope  B  (where  latter 
passes  beneath  corner  of  pack)  to  D,  as  shown  in  Fig.  3. 

Draw  loose  end  of  running  rope  forward  and 


94      PACKING  AND  PORTAGING 


(FiG.  3.)     Off  side  of  hitch  completed. 


LIFTING  HITCH 
(FiG.  4.)     Hitch  formed  ready  to  tighten. 

from  under  standing  rope  at  top  of  pack.  The 
effect  of  operations  thus  far  is  this :  The  run- 
ning rope  passes  up  the  near  side,  from  hook 
and  to  top  of  load  and  passes  under  standing 
rope,  which  will  serve  effectually  in  final  tight- 
ening of  cinch  to  hold  slack. 


SOME  PRACTICAL   HITCHES    95 

Pass  end  of  running  rope  over  and  under 
the  forward  end  of  off  pack  and  backward  un- 
der standing  rope  and  pack.  Now  bring  the 
rope  forward  over  side  of  pack,  double,  and 
thrust  the  doubled  portion  over  and  under  for- 
ward rope  in  a  bight.  With  left  hand  grasp 
double  of  rope  at  bight  just  to  rear  of  forward 
rope  where  it  passes  over  and  under  forward 
rope,  and  with  right  hand  slip  running  rope 
down  and  just  to  rear  of  standing  rope.  Take 
up  slack.  By  pulling  hard  upon  loose  end  of 
running  rope  the  ends  of  pack  will  be  lifted 
slightly. 

Throw  loose  end  over  horse  to  near  side, 
and  across  middle  of  load.  Pass  to  near  side 
and  manipulate  rope  as  on  off  side.  Tighten 
load.  Secure  the  hitch  by  bringing  loose  end 
of  rope  over  and  under  forward  running  and 
standing  ropes,  and  tie. 

STIRRUP  HITCH 

This  hitch  is  useful  where  the  packer  has 
lash  rope  but  no  cinch,  and  may  be  employed  on 
sawbuck  saddle,  aparejo,  or  where  the  load  is 
hung  upon  an  ordinary  riding  saddle.  It  is  a 
two-man  hitch,  though  one  man  may  manipu- 
late it. 

Pass  the  rope  over  the  load,  with  an  equal 


96      PACKING  AND  PORTAGING 


(FiG.  i.)  Rope  is  thrown  across  load  with  equal  por- 
tion falling  on  each  side.  Loop  A  is  formed  on  top  of 
load,  and  the  ends  BB  are  passed  through  it  to  form 
large  loops  C  and  D. 


STIRRUP  HITCH 

(FiG.  2.)  Loops  C  and  D  are  passed  under  horse's 
belly  and  seized  by  packers  on  opposite  sides.  Each  packer 
then  draws  end  of  rope  which  he  is  holding  through  loop 
which  has  been  passed  to  him.  Off  packer  forms  bowline 
knot,  E,  and  near  packer  passes  his  end  of  rope  through 
this.  Hitch  is  now  ready  to  tighten. 


SOME  PRACTICAL   HITCHES     97 

division  of  rope  on  either  side.  Form  a  loop 
at  center  and  top  of  load.  Each  packer  will 
now  place  a  foot  upon  the  rope,  where  it  falls 
from  loop  to  ground,  and  pass  his  end  of  rope 
through  loop  from  above  down  and  draw 
through  slack  rope.  This  forms  a  loop  on 
either  side  in  which  the  foot  rests.  Each 
packer  will  now  bring  forward  and  under  the 
horse's  belly  the  loop  in  which  his  foot  rests, 
passing  the  loop  to  the  other  packer  at  the  same 
time  disengaging  his  foot,  and  will  pass  the 
loose  end  of  rope  which  he  holds  through  the 
loop  which  he  receives.  The  ropes  on  top  of 


HITCH 

With  rope  arranged  as  shown  throw  deer  across  saddle, 
enlarge  loops  A  and  B  around  haunches  and  neck.  Bring 
ends  C  and  D  together,  form  bowline  knot  on  end  D,  pass 
end  C  through  it  and  tighten. 


98       PACKING  AND  PORTAGING 

pack  will  now  be  spread  to  properly  cover  and 
secure  the  pack,  and  all  slack  taken. 

The  off  side  packer  now  forms  a  bowline 
knot  in  the  loose  end  of  his  rope,  the  near  side 
packer  passes  his  loose  end  through  the  bow- 
line loop.  To  tighten  the  load  the  off  side 
packer  gives  slack,  while  the  near  side  packer 
braces  and  draws  in  on  loose  end  of  rope,  tying 
at  bowline  loop  to  secure  load. 

THE  SADDLE  HITCH 

This  is  a  particularly  useful  hitch  when  it 
becomes  necessary  to  sling  a  deer  to  a  riding 
saddle  for  transportation  to  camp. 

Throw  the  lash  rope  across  the  saddle  seat, 
an  equal  division  of  rope  falling  to  either  side. 
Double  the  rope  where  it  crosses  the  cinch  ring 
and  thrust  it  through  the  cinch  ring  in  a  loop, 
drawing  through  enough  loose  rope  to  form  a 
good-sized  loop.  This  should  be  done  on  both 
sides.  Lay  the  deer  across  saddle,  with  head 
hanging  on  one  side  and  haunches  on  the  o.ther 
side,  slip  loop  on  one  side  over  the  deer's  head, 
and  the  loop  on  the  other  side  over  its 
haunches.  Take  in  all  slack.  Form  a  bow- 
line loop  on  end  of  off  side  rope,  and  lay  it  on 
top  of  load.  This  loop  should  be  so  adjusted 
as  to  reach  the  middle  of  the  top  of  load. 


SOME  PRACTICAL   HITCHES    99 

Passing  to  near  side,  thread  loose  end  of  near 
side  rope  through  the  bowline  loop.  Tighten 
load  by  pulling  on  loose  end,  and  tie. 

HOW  TO   PACK  A  SICK  OR  INJURED   MAN 

Sometimes  it  occurs  that  a  member  of  a  party 
is  so  injured  or  becomes  so  ill  as  to  be  helpless, 
and  the  problem  of  transporting  him  upon 
horseback  presents  itself.  This  may  be  done 
in  the  following  manner  upon  a  crosstree  or 
sawbuck  saddle : 

Cut  two  straight  sticks  three  feet  long  and 
about  three  inches  in  diameter.  Fit  one  on 
either  side  of  saddle  snug  against  the  forks. 
Lash  securely  to  forks  forward  and  rear,  with 
ends  of  sticks  protruding  an  equal  distance  for- 
ward of  and  back  of  forward  and  rear  forks. 
It  may  be  well  to  cut  shallow  notches  in  the 
sticks  where  they  rest  against  the  forks.  This 
will  preclude  lateral  motion. 

Cut  two  sticks  two  feet  long  and  three  inches 
in  diameter.  Place  one  in  front  and  one  in 
rear  at  right  angles  to  and  across  top  of  sticks 
already  in  position.  These  cross-pieces  are  to 
be  lashed  to  position  one  about  two  inches 
from  forward  ends,  the  other  two  inches  from 
rear  ends  of  lengthwise  sticks.  Before  lashing 
them  into  position  cut  notches  to  receive  lash 


ioo    PACKING  AND  PORTAGING 

ropes  at  points  of  intersection,  that  any  ten- 
dency to  slip  or  work  loose  may  be  overcome. 
Now  cut  two  poles  six  feet  long  and  three 
inches  in  diameter.  Spread  a  pack  cloth  upon 
the  ground,  and  presuming  the  pack  cloth  is 
six  feet  wide,  place  a  pole  on  each  outer  end 
of  it.  Roll  poles,  with  pack  cloth,  to  center 
until  there  is  a  width  of  twenty  inches  between 
the  outer  edges  of  poles.  In  this  position  lace 
cloth  to  each  pole,  or  if  horseshoe  or  other 
nails  are  handy,  nail  it  to  poles.  Should  the 
cloth  be  wider  than  length  of  poles,  fold  in  a 
margin  on  each  end,  before  rolling.  Place  lit- 
ter on  cross-pieces,  the  flat  of  canvas  on  top. 
Notch,  and  secure  poles  of  stretcher  at  front 
and  rear  to  cross-pieces.  Lash  down  litter  by 
means  of  the  stirrup  hitch. 


CHAPTER   XII 

TRAVELING  WITHOUT  A  PACK  HORSE 

THE   man  who   travels   without  a   pack 
horse,   and  carries   his   full   equipment 
and  provision  supply  upon  his   saddle 
must,  of  necessity,  deny  himself  many  things 
that  under  ordinary  circumstances  are  deemed 
essentials.     He  must  indeed  travel  light,  and 
unless  he  is  well  inured  to  roughing  it  will  be 
content  to  confine  his  activities  to  the  warmer 
and  less  inclement  months. 

The  food  supply  is  the  first  consideration, 
but  nowadays  one  is  certain  to  come  every  three 
or  four  days  at  the  outside  upon  some  point 
where  fresh  supplies  may  be  purchased.  There- 
fore, twelve  to  fifteen  pounds  of  provisions, 
carefully  selected  from  the  ration  already  sug- 
gested, will  meet  the  utmost  needs.  In  select- 
ing the  ration  it  is  well  to  eliminate  all  luxuries. 
It  may  also  be  said  that  canned  goods  are  too 
heavy,  where  one  is  to  pack  more  than  a  two- 
days'  supply,  and  bacon  should  be  made  the 
101 


102     PACKING  AND  PORTAGING 

basis  of  the  meat  diet.  But  then  we  are  con- 
sidering methods  of  packing  and  carrying, 
rather  than  check  lists.  Limiting  the  quantity 
to  fifteen  pounds  for  a  five-days'  trip — and  this 
is  ample  with  judicious  selection — the  individ- 
ual will  be  left  to  decide  his  ration  for  himself. 

Saddle  bags  will  be  found  indispensable  and 
in  them  will  be  ample  room  to  carry  the  limited 
toilet  articles  required,  a  hand  towel,  one 
change  of  light  woolen  or  summer  underwear, 
matches,  tobacco  and  rifle  cartridges.  The 
best  shelter  is  a  lean-to  tent,  made  of  extra 
light  cloth.  This  should  be  about  seven  feet 
long,  four  and  one-half  feet  high  and  four  feet 
deep.  Such  a  tent  will  weigh  about  three 
pounds. 

The  cooking  outfit  will  be  limited  to  essen- 
tials. If  it  can  be  had  an  aluminum  army  or 
"  Preston  "  mess  kit,  either  of  which  weighs 
about  two  pounds,  a  sheath  knife  with  broad 
blade,  and  a  pint  cup,  will  fill  all  requirements. 
If  the  mess  kit  cannot  be  procured,  a  small 
frying  pan  with  folding  handle,  an  aluminum 
or  enamel  plate  and  a  dessert  spoon  with  sheath 
knife,  and  a  pint  cup,  will  do  nearly  as  well. 
In  this  latter  case  coffee  may  be  made  in  the  cup. 
A  small  canteen,  which  may  be  hung  upon  the 
saddle  horn,  should  also  be  provided. 

A  small    belt  axe    that  weighs    about  two 


WITHOUT  PACK    HORSE      103 

pounds,  with  sheath,  a  lariat  and  a  few  feet 
of  rope  will  be  required. 

A  single  blanket  or  a  pair  of  light  blankets 
not  exceeding  five  pounds  in  weight  will  consti- 
tute the  only  bedding  that  can  be  conveniently 
carried. 

To  pack  the  outfit  spread  tent  flat  upon  the 
ground,  turning  the  triangular  ends  in  to  lie 
flat.  Fold  the  tent  once,  end  for  end.  This 
will  make  a  rectangular  pack  cloth  three  and 
one-half  feet  long  and  about  five  and  one-half 
feet  wide.  Fold  your  blanket  to  a  size  a  little 
smaller  than  tent  and  spread  it  flat  upon  the 
tent.  Arrange  your  provision  packages  on  the 
blanket  a  foot  or  so  from  one  end  and  with  a 
margin  of  a  foot  or  more  on  either  side.  Fold 
the  end  of  blanket  and  tent  up  and  over  the 
packages  and  roll  up  blanket  and  tent  together 
with  a  band  close  to  the  knob  in  center  to  hold 
the  packages  in  place  and  prevent  their  work- 
ing down  toward  ends  of  roll. 

The  provisions  should  be  thoroughly  pro- 
tected in  bags,  as  previously  suggested,  in  or- 
der that  they  may  not  soil  the  blanket. 

Place  the  roll  directly  behind  saddle  seat 
with  the  bulge  caused  by  the  provision  bulk 
resting  against  saddle  seat,  the  end  of  roll  fall- 
ing on  either  side,  and  tie  in  position  by  means 
of  leather  tie  strings  attached  to  saddle  on  each 


104    PACKING  AND  PORTAGING 

side.  The  tie  should  be  made  in  both  cases 
just  below  the  bulge  in  roll. 

The  tent  will  protect  blanket  and  provisions, 
and  if  judgment  has  been  used  in  the  selection 
and  arrangement  of  provisions  the  bulk  should 
not  be  unduly  or  inconveniently  large.  The 
cooking  kit,  if  enclosed  in  a  canvas  case  with 
handle,  may  be  lashed  to  roll  by  passing  lash 
string  through  the  handle  and  over  the  top 
and  around  the  kit.  A  strap  above  the  upper 
loop  of  the  rifle  boot  and  through  the  belt 
loop  on  the  axe  scabbard  will  hold  the  axe  and 
another  buckled  around  the  rifle  boot  and  lower 
end  of  handle  will  prevent  a  slapping  motion 
of  the  handle. 

The  poncho,  neatly  rolled,  may  be  carried 
on  the  pommel,  the  center  of  the  roll  pressed 
against  the  back  of  the  horn,  the  ends  drawn 
down  and  forward  of  the  pommel  on  either 
side  and  secured  with  the  leathern  tie  strings 
attached  to  the  saddle.  When  not  in  use 
sweater  or  Pontiac  shirt  may  be  carried  with 
the  poncho. 

The  horse  may  be  picketed  with  the  lariat. 
Hobbles  may  be  made  as  cowboys  make  them 
from  rope.  A  strand  unraveled  from  half- 
inch  rope  brought  once  around  one  leg,  twisted 
rather  tightly,  the  ends  brought  around  the 
other  leg  and  secured  in  the  twist  between  the 


WITHOUT  PACK   HORSE      105 

legs,  makes  a  good  hobble.  Always  fasten 
picket  rope  or  hobble  below  the  fetlock  just 
above  the  hoof — never  above  the  fetlock. 

The  outfit  here  outlined  will  weigh,  includ- 
ing rifle  and  a  reasonable  amount  of  ammuni- 
tion, from  forty  to  forty-five  pounds  at  the 
utmost,  and  one  may  be  very  comfortable  with 
it.  If  game  and  fish  can  be  caught  and  are 
to  be  depended  upon,  the  provisions  may  be 
cut  down  to  a  little  flour,  bacon,  coffee  and 
sugar,  and  the  traveler  may  tarry  in  the  wilder- 
ness for  a  considerable  time. 

One  may  leave  out  the  tent,  and  in  a  warm 
climate  even  the  blanket,  relying  for  shelter 
wholly  upon  the  poncho.  An  experienced  man 
will  often  limit  his  cooking  outfit  to  a  cup  and 
canteen.  A  good  strong  reliable  horse,  a  good 
saddle  equipment,  and  enough  plain  food  is  all 
one  really  needs  who  has  experience  in  wilder- 
ness travel.  Such  a  man  can  make  himself 
comfortable  with  exceedingly  little. 


CHAPTER   XIII 

AFOOT  IN  SUMMER 

ON  the  portage  one  may  carry  a  pretty 
heavy  pack  and  think  nothing  of  it,  for 
the  end  of  the  portage  and  the  relaxa- 
tion of  the  paddle  is  just  ahead.  The  por- 
tage is  merely  an  incident  of  the  canoe  trip. 

The  foot  traveler,  however,  has  no  canoe 
to  carry  him  and  his  outfit  five  or  ten  miles  for 
every  mile  he  carries  his  outfit.  He  must  carry 
both  himself  and  his  outfit  the  entire  distance 
traversed.  This  is  obvious,  and  it  leads  to  the 
conclusion  that  the  outfit  must  be  accordingly 
reduced  both  in  weight  and  bulk. 

How  heavy  a  load  may  be  easily  transported 
depends,  of  course,  upon  the  man,  but  it  is  safe 
to  say  that  the  inexperienced  will  find  twenty- 
five  pounds  a  heavy  enough  burden,  and  within 
this  limit  must  be  included  shelter,  bed,  and 
one  week's  -provisions;  though  ordinarily  the 
tramper  will  be  able  to  renew  his  supply  of 
provisions  almost  daily. 

Under  all  ordinary  circumstances  a  single 
JQ6 


AFOOT   IN  SUMMER  107 

woolen  blanket  weighing  not  to  exceed  three 
pounds  will  be  found  ample  summer  bedding. 
A  lean-to  shelter  tent  seven  feet  long,  four  feet 
wide  and  four  feet  high  of  one  of  the  light 
tenting  materials  previously  described,  weighs 
less  than  three  pounds  and  furnishes  ample  and 
comfortable  shelter.  Blanket  and  tent  may  be 
carried  easily  in  a  roll,  the  tent  on  the  outside 
to  protect  the  blanket. 

To  make  the  roll  spread  the  tent  upon  the 
ground,  fold  the  blanket  once,  end  for  end,  and 
spread  it  upon  the  tent,  the  sides  of  the  blan- 
ket (not  folded  ends)  toward  the  ends  of  the 
tent.  Fold  in  ends  of  tent  over  blanket  and 
roll  up.  Double  the  roll  and  tie  together  a 
little  above  the  ends  with  a  stout  string.  The 
roll,  dropped  over  the  head  with  center  rest- 
ing upon  one  shoulder  and  the  tied  ends  coming 
together  near  the  hip  on  the  opposite  side,  may 
be  carried  with  little  inconvenience.  Blankets 
are  usually  seventy-two  inches  wide,  therefore 
the  roll  should  be  about  six  feet  in  length  be- 
fore it  is  doubled  and  the  ends  tied. 

A  belt  axe  will  be  carried,  in  a  sheath,  upon 
the  belt,  the  remaining  equipment  and  provi- 
sions in  a  Nessmuk  pack  or  a  ruck  sack.  The 
Nessmuk  pack,  sold  by  most  outfitters,  is  about 
12  x  20x5  inches  in  size  and  made  of  water- 
proofed canvas.  This  will  easily  hold  a  nine- 


io8    PACKING  'AND  PORTAGING 

inch  frying  pan  with  folding  handle,  an  alu- 
minum pan  7x3  inches  with  folding  handle,  a 
pint  cup  (if  you  do  not  wish  to  carry  the  cup 
on  your  belt) ,  a  spoon  or  two,  a  cooking  knife, 
a  dish  cloth  and  a  dish  towel,  together  with  one 
week's  provisions,  matches,  etc.  There  will 
still  be  room  for  a  small  bag  containing  the  few 
needed  toilet  articles  and  hand  towel,  and  an- 
other small  bag  containing  one  change  of  light- 
weight woolen  underwear  and  two  pairs  of 
socks. 

The  cooking  outfit  indicated  is  limited,  but 
quite  ample.  I  -have  done  very  well  for  weeks 
at  a  time  with  no  other  cooking  utensils  than 
a  pint  cup  and  a  sheath  knife.  But  here  we 
cannot  go  into  woodcraft  or  extreme  concen- 
tration of  rations  and  outfit.  We  are  consider- 
ing, rather,  comfortable  or  moderately  com- 
fortable outfits  and  how  to  pack  or  transport 
them. 

Tent,  blanket,  axe,  food  and  other  equip- 
ment above  suggested  will,  if  intelligently  se- 
lected, not  go  beyond  the  twenty-five  pound 
limit.  The  greatest  weight  will  be  in  the  food, 
and  each  day  will  reduce  this  about  two  pounds. 
If  provisions  can  be  purchased  from  day  to  day 
these,  of  course,  need  not  be  carried,  and  the 
remaining  load  will  be  very  light  indeed. 

I  would  suggest  that  a  light  sweater  take  the 


AFOOT  IN   SUMMER  109 

place  of  a  coat  as  it  will  He  found  more  com- 
fortable and  useful  and  may  be  carried  on  top 
of  the  pack  or  in  the  blanket  roll,  for  it. will 
rarely  be  worn  save  in  the  evening  camp. 

A  broad-brimmed  felt  hat,  an  outer  shirt  of 
medium-weight  flannel,  khaki  trousers  and 
strong  but  not  too  heavy  shoes  make  a  practi- 
cal and  comfortable  costume.  Woolen  socks 
protect  the  feet  from  chafing.  Some  campers 
like  long  German  stockings,  which  serve  also 
for  leggings,  and  wear  thin  cotton  socks  inside 
them.  In  selecting  shoes  take  into  consider- 
ation the  kind  of  socks  or  stockings  to  be  worn, 
and  see  that  the  shoes  are  amply  large  though 
not  too  large,  for  shoes  too  large  are  nearly 
as  uncomfortable  as  shoes  too  small. 


CHAPTER   XIV 

WITH  SNOWSHOES  AND  TOBOGGAN 

IN  the  mode  of  travel  here  to  be  considered 
the  voyageur,  equipped  with  snowshoes, 
hauls  his  provisions  and  entire  camping 
paraphernalia  upon  a  toboggan  or  flat  sled. 
The  toboggan  (Indian  ta'-bas-kan')  had  its  ori- 
gin in  the  prehistoric  past  among  the  Algonquin 
Indians  of  northeastern  America.  It  was  de- 
signed by  them  for  the  purpose  of  transporting 
goods  over  trackless,  unbeaten  snow  wastes 
where  sleds  with  runners  could  not  be  used,  and 
for  this  purpose  it  is  unequaled. 

While  for  our  purpose  the  conventionalized 
toboggan  sold  by  outfitters  and  designed  for 
hill  sliding  and  general  sport  will  answer  very 
well,  the  wilderness  model  in  use  by  Indians 
and  trappers  in  our  northern  wilderness  is  a 
better  designed  and  preferable  type  for  the 
transportation  of  loads. 

Various  lengths  of  toboggans  are  in  use, 
each  intended  for  the  particular  purpose  for 
which  it  was  built.  The  longest  Indian  tobog- 

110 


SNOfTSHOES   AND    TOBOGGAN    in 

gan  I  ever  saw  was  twelve  feet  in  length,  but 
from  six  to  eight  feet  is  the  ordinary  length, 
with  a  width  of  nine  inches  at  the  tip  of  the 
curved  nose,  gradually  increasing  to  fourteen 
inches  wide  where  the  curve  ends  and  the  sliding 
surface  or  bottom  begins,  and  tapering  away 
to  about  six  inches  wide  at  the  heel.  The  con- 
ventionalized type  averages  from  four  to  six 
feet  in  length  with  a  uniform  width  of  about 
fifteen  inches  from  curve  to  heel. 

Some  three  or  more  crossbars,  depending 
upon  the  length  of  the  toboggan,  are  lashed  at 
intervals  across  the  top,  the  forward  one  at 
the  beginning  of  the  curve  where  the  nose  be- 
gins to  turn  upward,  and  on  either  side  of  the 
toboggan  from  front  to  rear  side  bar,  and 
fastened  to  the  side  bars  at  their  ends  are  side 
ropes. 

Beaver-tail,  bearVpaw,  or  swallow-tail 
snowshoes,  of  Indian  make,  are  the  shapes  best 
adapted  to  the  sort  of  travel  we  are  consider- 
ing. These  models  are  all  broad  and  com- 
paratively short.  The  web  should  be  of  good 
caribou  babiche,  closely  woven  for  use  upon 
dry  snow,  and  indeed  for  all-around  conditions. 
While  on  wet,  soggy  snow  a  coarse  web  may  in 
some  respects  be  preferable  it  will  not  com- 
pare in  efficiency  with  the  close  web  on  loose 
snow,  or  for  all-around  work  under  all  sorts 


ii2    PACKING  AND  PORTAGING 

of  conditions.  Long,  narrow  snowshoes  may 
be  very  good  for  racing  where  the  country  is 
smooth,  but  they  are  not  suited  to  a  rough, 
wooded  or  broken  country  or  to  hummocky 
snow. 

The  best  and  most  practical,  as  well  as  the 
simplest  sling  or  binding  for  the  snowshoe  is 
made  as  follows:  Cut  from  an  Indian  tanned 
buckskin  a  thong  about  half  an  inch  wide  and 
thirty  inches  in  length.  Thread  one  end  of 
this,  from  above  down,  through  the  web  at  one 
side  of  the  toe  hole,  and  from  the  bottom  up 
at  the  opposite  side.  Pull  it.  through  until  the 
two  ends  are  even.  Draw  the  thong  up  at  the 
middle,  where  it  crosses  the  toe  hole,  to  make 
a  loop  large  enough  to  admit  the  toe  under  it, 
but  not  large  enough  to  permit  the  toe  to  slide 
forward  against  the  forward  cross-bar.  Wrap 
the  two  ends  of  the  thong  around  center  of 
loop  two  or  three  times  bringing  them  forward 
over  the  top  and  drawing  them  under  and  back 
through  the  loop.  Slip  your  toes  under  the 
loop,  bring  the  ends  of  the  thong  back,  one 
on  either  side  of  the  foot,  and  tie  snugly  in 
the  hollow  above  your  heel. 

This  sling  will  hold  well,  will  not  chafe  the 
foot,  and  with  it  the  snowshoe  may  be  kicked 
free  from  the  foot  or  adjusted  to  the  foot  in  an 
instant. 


SNOWSHOES   AND    TOBOGGAN.   113 

Should  the  thongs  stretch  in  moist  weather, 
the  sling  may  be  tightened  by  simply  taking  an 
additional  turn  or  two  (without  untying) 
around  the  toe  loop. 

I  believe  that  lamp-wicking  would  answer  as 
well  as  buckskin  thongs,  though  I  have  never 
used  it  because  I  have  always  carried  an  ample 
supply  of  buckskin. 

The  best  underclothing  for  the  winter  trail 
is  good  weight — though  not  the  heaviest — 
woolen.  Two  suits  should  be  carried  besides 
the  suit  worn.  Underclothing  should  not  fit  the 
body  too  snugly.  It  is  better  that  it  should  be 
a  size  too  large  than  an  exact  fit. 

The  outer  shirt  should  be  of  flannel,  and  of 
good  quality,  though  not  too  heavy. 

Hudson's  Bay  Company  trappers  wear 
good-weight  moleskin  trousers,  almost  entirely 
to  the  exclusion  of  other  fabrics,  and  I  adopted 
them  several  years  ago  as  superior  to  any 
other.  They  are  wind-proof  and  warm  and 
are  particularly  well  adapted  to  the  rough 
work  of  the  trail. 

The  ordinary  coat  is  not  at  all  adapted  to 
the  northern  wilderness  in  winter,  for  it  will  not 
protect  against  drifting  snow  and  driving  bliz- 
zard. In  its  stead  the  Eskimo  adickey  should 
be  worn. 

Any  seamstress  who  can  cut  and  make  an 


ii4    PACKING  AND  PORTAGING 

ordinary  work  shirt  can  make  an  adickey  if 
your  outfitter  cannot  supply  it.  This  garment 
is  slipped  on  over  the  head  like  a  shirt,  and 
has  a  hood  attached  to  draw  over  the  cap  as  a 
neck  and  head  protection.  The  neck  opening 
is  large  enough  to  permit  the  head  to  pass 
through  it  without  the  necessity  of  a  buttoned 
opening  in  front,  for  no  matter  how  closely 
buttoned  a  garment  may  be  drifting  snow  will 
find  its  way  in.  In  length  the  adickey  reaches 
half  way  between  hip  and  knees  and  is  made 
circular  at  the  bottom.  The  hood  should  be 
of  ample  proportion  to  pull  over  the  cap 
loosely,  with  a  drawstring  encircling  the  front 
by  which  it  may  be  drawn  snugly  to  the  face. 
A  fringe  of  muskrat  or  other  fur  around  the 
face  increases  the  comfort,  the  fur  acting  as  a 
protection  against  drifting  snow.  While  white 
Hudson's  Bay  Company  kersey  cloth  is  a  favor- 
ite fabric  for  this  garment,  it  may  be  made  of 
any  woolen  blanket  duffle  or  similar  cloth. 

Over  the  kersey  adickey  another  adickey  of 
some  smooth-surfaced,  strong  material,  prefer- 
ably moleskin,  should  be  worn.  This  outside 
adickey  should  of  course  be  just  enough  larger 
than  the  kersey  or  blanket  adickey  to  fit  over 
it  easily.  The  adickeys  may  be  worn  singly 
or  together,  according  to  the  demands  of  the 
weather. 


SNOPTSHOES   AND    TOBOGGAN.   115 

A  Pontiac  shirt,  to  be  worn  under  the  adic- 
keys  in  extremely  cold  weather,  should  be  in- 
cluded in  the  outfit.  This  will  serve,  too,  in 
camp,  when  the  adickeys  are  laid  aside. 

A  round  cap  of  fur  or  heavy  cloth  provided 
with  flaps  to  turn  down  over  the  ears  makes 
the  best  head  protection.  The  hoods  of  the 
two  adickeys,  as  before  stated,  should  be  large 
enough  to  draw  over  this. 

Very  important  indeed  is  the  question  of  foot 
dress.  Not  only  must  we  aim  to  secure  the 
greatest  possible  freedom  and  ease  in  walking, 
but  the  ever-present  danger  of  frostbite  must 
also  be  guarded  against. 

Socks  should  be  of  wool,  of  the  home-knit 
variety,  and  besides  the  pair  worn,  three  or 
four  extra  pairs  should  be  carried  in  the  kit. 

Knit  socks  will  not  be  sufficient  protection, 
however,  and  where  two  or  three  pairs  are 
worn  they  are  certain  to  bunch  or  wrinkle,  with 
chafed  and  sore  feet  as  a  result.  All  Hud- 
son's Bay  Company  stores  keep  in  stock  a 
white  fuzzy  woolen  duffle  of  blanket  thickness. 
If  you  are  making  your  start  from  a  Post  pur- 
chase some  of  this  duffle  and  have  one  of  the 
women  at  the  Post  make  you  a  pair  of  knee- 
length  stockings  of  the  duffle  to  pull  over  your 
knit  socks,  and  two  pairs  of  slippers  of  the 
same  material,  one  just  large  enough  to  fit 


n6    PACKING  AND  PORTAGING 

over  the  foot  of  the  long  stockings,  the  other 
just  a  little  larger  to  fit  over  all.  These  should 
be  made  of  proper  size,  to  obviate  wrinkles. 
The  larger  outfitters  carry  in  stock  good  wool 
duffle,  and  will  make  these  to  fit  properly. 

In  crisp,  cold  weather,  when  the  snow  never 
softens  or  gets  moist  even  under  the  midday 
sun,  buckskin  moccasins  should  be  the  outer 
footwear.  Ordinary  leather  will  freeze  stiff, 
stop  the  proper  circulation  of  blood,  and 
certainly  lead  to  frosted  feet.  The  moccasins 
should  be  made  with  high  tops,  reaching  above 
the  ankles,  with  buckskin  strings  to  wrap 
around  and  secure  them.  Moccasins  are  light 
to  pack,  and  it  is  always  well  to  carry  a  couple 
of  extra  pairs,  to  have  on  hand  in  case  of 
emergency. 

Leggings  of  moleskin  (or  some  other  strong, 
pliable  cloth)  large  enough  to  push  the  foot 
through  protect  the  legs.  These  should  be 
knee  high,  with  a  drawstring  to  secure  them 
just  below  the  knee.  Ordinary  canvas  leggings 
will  not  do.  The  leggings  must  be  made  in 
one  piece,  without  side  buttons  or  other  fasten- 
ings, for  otherwise  snow  will  work  through  to 
the  great  discomfort  of  the  wearer. 

I  have  a  pair  of  buckskin  moccasins  sewn  to 
legs  of  harbor  sealskin,  the  hair  side  of  the 
sealskin  out.  This  arrangement  is  preferable 


WOWSHOES   AND    TOBOGGAN   117 

to  separate  leggings  but  sealskin  legs  are  diffi- 
cult to  procure. 

Ordinarily  I  have  found  one  pair  of  knit 
socks,  one  pair  of  the  long  duffle  stockings  de- 
scribed above  and  one  pair  of  the  duffle  slippers, 
worn  inside  the  buckskin  moccasins,  quite  suffi- 
cient. 

The  knit  socks  may  be  done  away  with  en- 
tirely and  also  one  pair  of  duffle  slippers  if 
rabbit-skin  socks  are  to  be  had.  These  are 
worn  with  the  hair  next  the  foot,  and  are  very 
warm  and  soft. 

In  weather  when  the  snow  softens  and  be- 
comes wet  at  midday,  buckskin  moccasins  will 
not  do,  for  the  least  moisture  penetrates  buck- 
skin. In  such  weather  sealskin  boots  are  the 
best  foot  protection.  They  are  waterproof, 
pliable  and  light.  Sealskin  boots  for  this  pur- 
pose have  neither  soles  nor  heels.  They  are 
simply  sealskin  moccasins  with  legs,  secured 
with  drawstrings  below  the  knee.  These  are 
of  Eskimo  make,  and  not  generally  obtainable 
though  they  may  be  purchased  in  Newfound- 
land. Oil-tanned  moccasins,  or  larrigans,  are 
the  next  best  moist-snow  foot  gear. 

Buckskin  mittens  with  one  or  two  inner  pairs 
of  mittens  of  thick  wool  duffle,  will  protect  the 
hands  in  the  coldest  weather.  One  pair  should 
be  a  little  smaller  than  the  other,  that  it  may 


n8     PACKING  AND  PORTAGING 

fit  snugly  into  the  larger  pair  without  wrinkles, 
and  the  larger  pair  of  a  size  to  fit  in  the  same 
manner  into  the  buckskin  mittens.  When  the 
weather  is  too  warm  for  both  pairs,  one  pair 
may  be  removed.  A  fringe  of  muskrat  or 
other  fur  around  the  wrists  of  the  buckskin 
mittens  protects  the  wrists  from  drifting  snow. 

A  pad  of  rabbit-skin  worn  across  the  fore- 
head will  protect  it  from  intense  cold.  Hunt- 
ing hoods  of  knit  camel's  hair  worsted  are  a 
pretty  good  head  protection,  particularly  at 
night.  They  cover  the  whole  head  except  the 
face,  and  may  be  drawn  up  over  the  chin. 
Mouth  and  nose  must  not  be  covered,  or  the 
breath  will  quickly  form  a  mass  of  ice  upon 
the  face. 

One  caution,  though  it  may  seem  a  digres- 
sion, may  be  made:  If  the  nose  or  cheeks  be- 
come frosted,  as  will  certainly  happen  sooner 
or  later  to  one  traveling  in  a  very  low  temper- 
ature, do  not  rub  snow  upon  the  frosted  part. 
Snow  rubbed  on  is  pretty  certain  to  fracture 
and  remove  sections  of  the  skin.  The  Eskimo 
way  is  to  hold  or  rub  the  frosted  part  with 
the  bare  hand  until  frost  has  been  removed, 
and  is  far  superior. 

The  clothing  outfit  above  described  will  be 
found  ample.  Extra  trousers  or  other  extra 
outer  garments  are  not  needed.  Let  all  hang 


SNOWSHQES   AND    TOBOGGAN   119 

loosely    upon   the   body.     Nothing  should   fit 
snugly. 

A  pair  of  smoked  or  amber  goggles  should 
always  be  included  in  the  winter  outfit.  Am- 
ber is  more  effective  than  smoked  glass, 
though  ordinarily  the  latter  will  do.  The  gog- 
gles should  be  fastened  with  a  string  to  slip 
over  the  back  of  the  head.  No  metal  should 
touch  the  flesh. 

The  best  low  temperature  sleeping  bag  is 
one  of  caribou  skin  made  with  the  hair  inside. 
Under  ordinary  conditions,  however,  a  water- 
proofed canvas  bag  lined  with  good  woolen 
blankets  will  do  as  well,  though  such  a  bag 
with  sufficient  blanket  lining  to  give  it  warmth 
equal  to  that  of  the  caribou  skin  bag  would 
be  much  heavier  and  more  bulky  than  the  lat- 
ter. A  bag  lined  with  four  thicknesses  of 
of  llama  wool  duffle  (that  is,  four  thicknesses 
over  and  four  beneath  the  sleeper),  however, 
should  not  weigh  more  than  ten  pounds,  and 
would  correspond  in  warmth  to  one  lined  with 
blankets  weighing  twenty  pounds. 

An  A  or  wedge  tent  will  be  found  the  best 
model  for  winter  travel.  A  sheet-iron  tent 
stove  with  bottom  and  telescoping  pipe  will 
make  the  tent  warm  and  snug.  The  tent 
should  be  fitted  with  an  asbestos  ring  at  the 
stovepipe  hole  as  a  protection.  A  pack  cloth 


120    PACKING  AND  PORTAGING 

or  tarpaulin  will   serve   as   an   adequate   and 
comfortable  tent  floor. 

It  is  never  safe  or  advisable  for  one  to  travel 
in  the  wilderness  alone,  for  a  sprained  ankle 
or  broken  leg  in  an  isolated  region  would  be 
more  than  likely  to  result  in  death. 

In  the  Hudson  Bay  country  two  pounds  of 
flour,  one  pound  of  fat  pork,  with  baking  pow- 
der, tea  and  sugar,  form  the  daily  ration  for  a 
man.  It  is  well  when  possible  to  carry  frozen 
fresh  meat,  free  from  bone,  with  a  proportion 
of  desiccated  vegetables  to  vary  the  diet.  But- 
ter makes  a  tasty  variety  to  the  fat,  for  it  will 
remain  sweet  at  this  season.  Prunes  and  choc- 
olate are  both  worth  while. 

Or  if  the  journey  is  to  be  extended  the 
menu  may  be  simplified  by  the  introduction 
of  pemmican  and  the  elimination  of  other 
articles.  Pemmican  is  the  best  condensed 
food  ever  invented  for  cold  weather  work. 
One  pound  of  pemmican  and  a  quarter 
pound  of  pilot  biscuit,  as  a  daily  ration,  will 
sustain  a  man  at  hard  work,  though  it  will 
prove  a  monotonous  diet.  The  above  is 
merely  suggested  as  a  basis.  It  may  be  ex- 
panded or  contracted  as  circumstances  require 
without  disturbing  its  mean  value.  Let  it  be 
remembered,  however,  that  ordinary  bread 
and  other  moist  foodstuffs  will  freeze  as  hard 


SNOIFSHOES   AND    TOBOGGAN    121 

as  stone.  Jerked  venison  and  desiccated  vege- 
tables make  tasty  and  sustaining  additions  to 
the  ration,  and  will  not  freeze. 

A  man  is  supposed  to  be  able  to  haul  at  good 
speed  upon  a  toboggan  a  load  equal  to  his  own 
weight.  Therefore  two  men,  each  weighing 
150  pounds,  should  between  them  haul  300 
pounds.  Camp  equipment,  tent  axes,  guns, 
bedding,  extra  underclothing  and  all  personal 
belongings  of  both,  if  proper  care  be  exer- 
cised in  selection,  should  weigh  not  to  exceed 
140  pounds.  Add  80  pounds  of  food,  and  we 
have  220  pounds,  or  a  maximum  load  of  no 
pounds  for  each.  The  tent  and  general  camp 
outfit  is  indeed  sufficient  for  four  men.  It  is 
presumed  that  the  aluminum  cooking  outfit 
previously  described  will  be  chosen.  Some 
eliminations,  as.  for  example,  that  of  the  fold- 
ing baker,  might  easily  be  made  without  seri- 
ous loss  of  comfort. 

To  secure  the  load  upon  the  toboggan,  ar- 
range the  bags  in  which  it  is  packed  evenly, 
taking  care  that  no  part  of  the  load  extends 
beyond  the  sides  of  the  toboggan.  Adjust  the 
tarpaulin  or  canvas  ground  cloth  neatly  over 
it.  Secure  one  end  of  your  lash  rope  to  the 
side  rope  on  one  side  at  the  rear.  Bring  the 
other  end  over  and  under  the  side  rope  oppo- 
site. Cross  it  back  over  the  load  and  over  and 


122     PACKING  AND  PORTAGING 

under  side  rope  to  front  of  next  crossbar,  and 
so  on  to  front  crossbar,  taking  slack  as  you 
proceed.  From  front  to  rear  criss-cross  rope 
in  same  manner  over  load  and  under  side  ropes, 
forming  diamonds  where  the  rope  crosses  it- 
self on  top  of  load.  Bring  the  end  of  rope  un- 
der side  rope  at  rear,  take  in  all  slack  and  tie. 


CHAPTER  XV 

WITH  DOGS  AND  KOMATIK 

IN  considering  equipment  for  dog  and 
sledge  traveling,  we  must  constantly  bear 
in  mind  the  necessity  of  keeping  down 
weight  and  bulk.  Not  long  since,  while  visit- 
ing the  establishment  of  a  New  York  City 
outfitter,  I  saw  an  equipment  which  a  sports- 
man ambitious  for  experience  with  dogs  and 
komatik  (sledge)  had  selected  for  a  month's 
journey  which  he  was  about  to  undertake.  Ex- 
clusive of  provisions  there  was  enough  mater- 
ial to  weight  down  four  eight-dog  teams. 
Among  other  things  was  a  specially  designed 
tent  stove  that  would  have  tipped  the  scales  at 
upwards  of  one  hundred  pounds. 

The  would-be  traveler  declared  with  pride 
that  he  "  did  not  intend  to  have  cold  camps." 
It  certainly  gave  me  "  cold  feet "  to  contem- 
plate his  outfit.  It  was  the  most  ridiculous 
and  impracticable  conglomerate  aggregation  of 
camping  material  that  I  have  ever  seen  put  to- 
123 


i24    PACKING  AND  PORTAGING 

gather,  and  I  doubt  if  the  would-be  traveler 
ever  found  a  sufficient  number  of  dogs  at  any 
one  point  to  transport  it. 

While  it  is  the  aim  of  every  experienced 
camper  to  obtain  the  greatest  degree  of  com- 
fort of  which  circumstances  will  admit,  the 
voyager  with  dogs  cannot  hope  to  carry  with 
him  the  luxuries  of  a  metropolitan  hotel,  and 
one  soon  learns  how  little  after  all  is  really 
necessary  to  make  one  comfortable. 

How  much  weight  a  team  of  eight  good 
dogs  can  haul  depends  upon  the  character  of 
the  country  and  the  condition  of  the  snow  or 
ice.  Under  very  favorable  conditions  I  have 
seen  such  a  team  make  good  progress  with 
twelve  hundred  pounds.  Ordinarily,  however, 
eight  hundred  pounds  is  a  full  load,  and  if 
much  rough  ice,  hilly  country  or  soft  snow  is 
encountered  six  hundred  pounds  will  be  found 
all  too  heavy.  I  have  heard  of  cases,  when 
traveling  was  exceptionally  good,  of  dogs  cov- 
ering upwards  of  one  hundred  miles  a  day. 
The  biggest  day's  travel  I  ever  made  with  dogs 
was  sixty  miles,  but  often  I  have  toiled  day  af- 
ter day,  pulling  and  hauling  with  the  animals  at 
the  traces,  lifting  the  komatik  over  rough 
places,  or  packing  a  trail  for  the  team  with  my 
snowshoes,  to  find  myself  rewarded  with  less 
than  ten  miles  when  camping  time  arrived. 


WITH  DOGS  AND  KOMATIK    125 

In  selecting  outfit  the  region  to  be  visited 
will  be  a  factor  to  take  into  consideration.  It 
would  be  quite  impossible  to  discuss  adequately 
in  a  single  chapter  all  the  phases  of  dog  travel 
to  be  provided  for.  We  shall  therefore  leave 
out  of  consideration  polar  outfitting,  or  outfit- 
ting for  other  unusual  work,  which  the  reader 
of  this  will  scarcely  be  likely  to  undertake. 

The  clothing  suggested  in  the  chapter  on 
snowshoe  and  toboggan  travel  is  equally  well 
suited  to  travel  with  dogs  and  komatik.  Should 
the  voyager's  ambition,  however,  draw  him 
within  the  sub-arctic  regions  or  across  the  Arc- 
tic Circle  some  additional  protection  will  be 
needed. 

In  the  far  Arctic  the  natives  wear  trousers 
of  either  polar  bear  skin  or  caribou  skin,  with 
an  upper  garment  of  caribou  skin  called,  in 
Greenland,  the  "kulutar;"  in  Labrador,  the 
"  kulutuk."  The  only  difference  between  the 
adickey  and  the  kulutuk  is  that  the  one  is  made 
of  cloth,  the  other  of  caribou  skin.  In  Un- 
gava  I  supplied  myself  with  caribou  skin  trous- 
ers, which,  as  is  the  custom  there,  I  drew  on 
over  my  moleskin  trousers  in  windy  or  in- 
tensely cold  weather. 

The  kulutuk  takes  the  place  of  the  moleskin 
adickey.  That  is  to  say,  the  kersey  adickey 
worn  under  the  kulutuk  will  be  found  ample 


126    PACKING  AND  PORTAGING 

protection  in  any  weather,  and  often  the  kulu- 
tuk  of  itself  will  be  found  sufficient. 

Kulutuk  and  skin  trousers  are  worn  hair  side 
out.  Were  they  worn  with  the  hairy  side  in, 
they  would  accumulate  moisture  exuded  by  the 
body,  and  the  moisture  would  freeze,  presently 
transforming  the  hair  into  a  mass  of  ice.  A 
friend  of  mine  going  to  the  Arctic  for  the  first 
time  as  a  member  of  one  of  Peary's  early 
Greenland  expeditions,  turned  his  kulutuk  in- 
side out  and  donned  it  with  the  hairy  side  next 
the  body.  The  Eskimos  laughed,  and  resent- 
ing their  levity  he  assured  them  it  was  much 
warmer  worn  in  that  manner  than  as  they  wore 
it.  "  No,"  said  one  of  them,  "  if  it  were  war- 
mer worn  that  way  the  animals  would  wear 
their  fur  inside."  My  friend  quickly  learned 
by  experience  the  logic  of  the  Eskimo's  argu- 
ment. 

Deerskin  kulutuk  and  trousers  are  not  easily 
purchased,  though  along  any  coast  where  seals 
are  captured  similar  garments  of  sealskin  may 
be  procured,  which,  though  not  equal  to  deer- 
skin garments,  answer  very  well.  The  skin  of 
the  young  harbor  seal  (the  ranger  seal)  is  best 
for  the  purpose,  as  skins  of  other  species  are 
too  thick  and  heavy.  When  made  of  sealskin 
the  upper  garment  is  called  a  "  netsek." 

I  discovered  when    traveling  among    them 


WITH  DOGS  AND  KOMATIK     127 

that  some  of  the  Moravian  missionaries  of  the 
Labrador  coast  wore  a  buckskin  suit  under 
their  ordinary  trousers  and  outer  shirt.  Such 
a  suit  is  much  lighter  than  deerskin  trousers 
and  kulutuk,  and  serves  nearly  as  well.  It  is 
not  difficult  to  purchase  buckskin  from  which 
one  may  have  such  a  suit  made.  It  is  wind- 
proof  and  very  light. 

All  skin  garments,  including  moccasins, 
should  be  sewn  with  animal  sinew.  Ordinary 
thread  will  quickly  break  out  and  will  not  do. 
Thread-sewn  moccasins  are  factory-made,  and 
will  give  very  little  service. 

The  types  of  snowshoes  suggested  in  the 
chapter  on  snowshoe  and  toboggan  travel  are 
the  types  also  best  suited  to  dog  and  komatik 
work.  Long  snowshoes  would  be  very  much 
in  the  way  when  one  has  to  go  to  the  traces  and 
haul  with  the  dogs  or  lift  and  assist  the  ko- 
matik over  rough  places ;  and  this  becomes  the 
rule  rather  than  the  exception  as  one  goes 
North. 

Let  me  insist  that  the  web  should  be  of  good 
caribou  babiche,  and  not  the  ordinary  rawhide 
used  in  many  of  the  snowshoes  offered  for  sale. 
The  former  will  not  stretch  when  wet,  while 
the  latter  will  stretch  and  bag  so  badly  as  to 
render  the  snowshoe  practically  useless. 

It  is  well  to  wrap  the  frame  on  either  side 


128     PACKING  AND  PORTAGING 

where  the  babiche  is  drawn  around  it,  with 
buckskin  or  sealskin.  Otherwise  even  a  slight 
crust  upon  the  snow  will  in  time  cut  the  babiche 
strands.  Wrapping  the  snowshoe  in  this  man- 
ner will  at  least  double  its  life. 

What  was  said  in  reference  to  tent,  smal) 
sheet-iron  stove  and  general  camp  and  cooking 
outfit  in  the  previous  chapter  will  apply  here, 
as  well  as  directions  heretofore  given  for  pack- 
ing in  waterproof  bags.  In  selecting  the  sleep- 
ing bag,  give  first  preference  to  one  of  deer- 
skin. 

In  a  barren  region  where  firewood  is  not  to 
be  had,  it  will  be  necessary  to  carry  an  alcohol 
or  kerosene  burner  and  stock  of  fuel.  The 
former  is  preferable  on  account  of  the  low 
freezing  point  of  alcohol.  Alcohol  or  oil 
should  be  secured  in  tin  cases.  It  is  regularly 
put  up  in  this  way  by  dealers. 

In  such  a  region,  too,  it  may  be  necessary  to 
carry  snow  knives  with  which  to  cut  blocks  of 
snow  for  the  erection  of  snow  igloos  as  shel- 
ter. These  knives  resemble  somewhat  the 
machete.  One  cannot,  however,  learn  to  build 
a  snow  igloo  properly  without  long  practice. 
This  phase  of  the  work  is  merely  referred  to  as 
interesting;  for  anyone  traveling  in  a  country 
where  snow  house  shelter  is  necessary  will  se- 
cure the  assistance  of  a  native,  who  will  attend 


WITH  DOGS  AND  KOMATIK     129 

to  proper  sledge  outfitting  at  the  point  of  de- 
parture. 

On  regular  lines  of  dog  travel  opportunities 
to  renew  the  provision  supply  will  frequently 
occur,  and  cabins  for  night  shelter  will  be 
found.  Therefore  the  food  outfit  will  depend 
upon  the  country  to  be  traversed.  Where  long 
stretches  occur  between  supply  points,  however, 
fat  pork,  pilot  bread,  tea  and  sugar  should 
form  the  basis.  The  very  best  possible  food, 
however,  for  this  work  is  pemmican,  pilot 
bread,  tea  and  sugar.  Of  course  a  little  coffee 
may  be  carried,  but  it  is  bulky. 

The  traveler  will  make  his  selection  care- 
fully, building  around  pork,  pilot  bread  and 
pemmican  with  other  articles  of  food  like 
desiccated  vegetables  from  which  water  has 
been  eliminated.  Too  much  salt  meat  opens 
the  door  to  scurvy,  unless  sufficient  variation 
in  the  way  of  vegetables,  fish,  or  fresh  meat 
is  introduced.  Dessicated  cranberries  are  an 
excellent  preventive.  A  man  can  do  good 
hard  work  day  in  and  day  out,  as  already 
stated,  upon  one  pound  of  pemmican  and  a 
quarter  pound  of  pilot  bread  as  a  daily  ration, 
and  such  a  ration  offers  no  danger  of  scurvy. 

Dog  pemmican  is  the  best  dog  food,  and  the 
lightest,  for  dogs  will  do  pretty  well  upon  one 
pound  of  pemmican  each  a  day.  To  do  well 


130    PACKING  AND  PORTAGING 

the  animals  should  be  given  plenty  of  fat, 
when  pemmican  is  not  available,  though  not  a 
clear  fat  diet,  for  that  will  make  them  sick. 
Three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  fat  and  three- 
quarters  of  a  pound  of  meat  or  fish  is  an  ordi- 
nary ration.  Dogs  are  fed  but  once  a  day — at 
night. 

The  number  of  dogs  in  a  team  varies,  but 
the  average  team  is  composed  of  seven  or 
eight.  Eight  or  nine  is  the  most  economical 
number  so  far  as  results  are  concerned. 

In  the  Northwest  dogs  are  harnessed  tan- 
dem. This  is  the  white  man's  method.  In  the 
Northeast  they  are  harnessed  fan  fashion — 
the  Eskimo  method.  That  is  to  say,  each  dog 
has  an  individual  trace  secured  to  the  end  of  a 
single  thong,  leading  out  from  the  bow  of  the 
komatik  and  called  the  bridle.  The  individual 
traces  are  of  various  lengths.  The  dog  with 
the  longest  trace  is  the  leader  of  the  pack,  and 
particularly  trained  to  respond  to  the  driver's 
directions.  The  other  dogs  will  follow  his 
lead. 

For  open  country  and  sea  ice  travel  the  Es- 
kimo method  is  probably  best,  as  the  work  is 
more  evenly  distributed  and  the  driver  can  al- 
ways tell  whether  each  dog  is  doing  his  share 
of  the  work,  but  for  narrow  trails  and  woods 
travel  the  tandem  method  is  more  practicable. 


WITH  DOGS  AND  KOMATIK     131 

Dogs  are  good,  bad  and  indifferent.  One 
seldom  has  an  opportunity  to  pick  one's  dogs 
discriminately,  and  rarely  may  one  purchase 
them  outright  unless  contracted  for  a  year  in 
advance,  for  the  native  dog  owner  seldom 
maintains  animals  in  excess  of  his  requirements 
in  the  ordinary  routine  of  his  life.  The 
traveler  will  usually  be  able,  however,  to  hire 
a  team  by  employing  the  owner  to  drive  it,  and 
the  owner  of  a  team  will  get  much  more  work 
out  of  his  dogs  than  a  stranger  to  the  dogs 
can  hope  to  do. 

At  least  a  year's  experience  is  necessary  to 
enable  a  white  man  to  handle  a  dog  team  with 
anything  approaching  efficiency,  and  even  then 
one  cannot  hope  to  approach  the  performance 
of  an  Eskimo.  The  failure  to  enlist  Eskimos 
as  dog  drivers  has  been  the  real  cause  of  the 
failure  of  many  an  Arctic  expedition. 

It  is  advised,  then,  that  the  traveler  employ 
at  so  much  per  day  or  for  the  trip  driver  and 
dogs.  It  is  an  unsafe  experiment  to  start  off 
with  a  dog  team  unattended  by  an  experienced 
man.  The  owner  of  the  team  will  supply  also 
the  necessary  dog  harness,  his  own  dog  whip 
and  general  dog  traveling  paraphernalia,  in- 
cluding the  komatik. 

Sledges  or  komatiks  vary  in  different  locali- 
ties as  to  width,  length  and  minor  methods  of 


132    PACKING  AND  PORTAGING 

construction.  The  average  komatik  is  two  feet 
wide  and  ten  feet  long  but  as  stated,  they  vary 
in  different  localities,  a  uniform  width  being 
maintained  to  suit  the  local  conditions  of  the 
region  in  which  they  are  used.  For  example, 
wide  and  comparatively  short  komatiks  are 
employed  in  Quebec,  while  the  Ungava  koma- 
tik is  but  sixteen  inches  wide.  These  latter  ko- 
matiks are  usually  fifteen  or  sixteen  feet  in 
length,  however.  The  runners  stand  ten  inches 
high.  This  is,  in  fact,  the  heaviest  and  most 
efficient  komatik  I  have  ever  seen.  Each  run- 
ner is  made  from  a  single  piece  of  timber  and 
is  from  two  and  one-half  to  three  inches  thick. 
It  is  designed  for  the  roughest  possible  use,  and 
is,  I  believe,  better  adapted  to  this  purpose  than 
the  Greenland  komatik  because  more  substan- 
tially built.  The  latter  is  peculiar  in  that  it  has 
upstands  at  the  rear  for  guiding  it. 

Crossbars,  extending  an  inch  or  so  on  either 
side  of  the  runners  and  from  one  to  two  inches 
apart,  are  lashed  into  place  with  rawhide. 
When  the  rawhide  shrinks  the  komatik  be- 
comes firm.  Iron  fastenings  being  rigid  would 
break  too  readily,  particularly  in  intense  cold, 
to  be  reliable. 

The  traveler  will  do  well,  therefore,  to  pur- 
chase if  he  does  not  hire  his  komatik  at  the 
point  of  departure,  as  in  so  doing  he  will  se- 


WITH  DOGS  AND  KOMATIK     133 

cure  one  of  correct  design  for  the  region  to  be 
traversed. 

It  is  well  to  have  a  box  made  the  width  of 
the  komatik  two  or  three  feet  long,  and  about 
fourteen  inches  deep  to  lash  upon  the  rear  end 
of  the  komatik  in  which  cooking  utensils  and 
a  portion  of  the  food  supply,  as  well  as  odds 
and  ends,  may  be  carried.  This  should  be  sup- 
plied with  a  hinged  cover,  and  hook  or  clasp 
by  which  the  cover  may  be  securely  fastened 
down. 

The  best  lash  for  securing  the  load  in  posi- 
tion is  one  of  sealskin,  though  ordinary  hemp 
rope  will  do.  Before  lashing,  the  tarpaulin 
should  be  neatly  folded  over  the  top  of  load  to 
protect  it. 

One  end  of  the  lash  is  secured  to  an  end  of 
the  crossbar  at  the  forward  end  of  the  load, 
brought  across  the  load  and  under  the  other 
end,  then  across,  skipping  a  couple  of  cross- 
bars, and  back  again  skipping  a  couple  of  cross- 
bars, thus  threading  it  from  side  to  side  under 
the  ends  of  every  second  or  third  crossbar  to 
the  rear  bar,  where  it  is  brought  across  the 
load  to  the  opposite  end  of  this  crossbar  and 
crisscrossed  across  the  load  again  to  the  for- 
ward crossbar  to  be  tied. 

THE  END 


MJrVMf  C    The  new  textbooks  for 
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soil  and  the  planting  of  the  trees  to  the  marketing  of  the  fruit,  are 
discussed  in  detail  by  the  author.  Chapter  heading*  are:—  The 
Outlook  for  the  Growing  of  Apples— Planning  for  the  Orchard- 
Planting  and  Growing  the  Orchard— Pruning  the  Trees— Cultivation 
and  Cover  Cropping — Manuring  and  Fertilizing — Insects  and  Dis- 
eases Affecting  the  Apple — The  Principles  and  Practice  of  Spraying 
— Harvesting  and  Storing — Markets  and  Marketing — Some  Hints  on 
Renovating  Old  Orchards — The  Cost  of  Growing  Apples. 


THE  AUTOMOBILE— Its  Selection,  Care  and  Use, 
by  Robert  Sloss.  This  is  a  plain,  practical  discussion  of  the 
things  that  every  man  needs  to  know  if  he  is  to  buy  the  right  car 
and  get  the  most  out  of  it.  The  various  details  of  operation  and 
care  are  given  in  simple,  intelligent  terms.  From  it  the  car  owner 
can  easily  learn  the  mechanism  of  his  motor  and  the  art  of  locating 
motor  trouble,  as  well  as  how  to  use  his  car  for  the  greatest  pleasure. 
A  chapter  is  included  on  building  garages. 

BACKWOODS   SURGERY   AND   MEDICINE,   by 

Charles  S.  Moody,  M.  D.  A  handy  book  for  the  prudent  lover 
of  the  woods  who  doesn't  expect  to  be  ill  but  believes  in  being  on  the 
safe  side.  Common-sense  methods  for  the  treatment  of  the  ordinary 
wounds  and  accidents  are  described — setting  a  broken  limb,  reduc- 
ing a  dislocation,  caring  for  burns,  cuts,  etc.  Practical  remedies  for 
camp  diseases  are  recommended,  as  well  as  the  ordinary  indications 
of  the  most  probable  ailments.  Includes  a  list  of  the  necessary  med- 
ical and  surgical  supplies. 

The  manager  of  a  mine  in  Nome,  Alaska,  writes  as  fol- 
lows: "/  have  been  on  the  trail  for  years  (twelve  in  the 
Klondike  and  Alaska}  and  have  always  wanted  just  such 
a  book  as  Dr. Moody' s  Backwoods  Surgery  and  Medicine.' ' 

2 


THE  BULL  TERRIER,    by  Williams  Haynes.      This 

is  a  companion  book  to  "The  Airedale"  and  "Scottish  and  Irish  Ter- 
riers" by  the  same  author.  Its  greatest  usefulness  is  as  a  guide  to 
the  dog  owner  who  wishes  to  be  his  own  kennel  manager.  A  full 
account  of  the  development  of  the  breed  is  given  as  also  description 
of  best  types  and  standards.  Recommendations  for  the  care  of 
the  dog  in  health  or  sickness  are  included.  The  chapter  heads 
cover  such  matters  as: — The  Bull  Terrier's  History — Training  the 
Bull  Terrier— The  Terrier  in  Health— Kennelling— Diseases. 

CAMP  COOKERY,  by  Horace  Kephart.  "The  less 
a  man  carries  in  his  pack  the  more  he  must  carry  in  his  head",  says 
Mr.  Kephart.  This  book  tells  what  a  man  should  carry  in  both  pack 
and  head.  Every  step  is  traced — the  selection  of  provisions  and 
utensils,  with  the  kind  and  quantity  of  each,  the  preparation  of  game, 
the  building  of  fires,  the  cooking  of  every  conceivable  kind  of  food 
that  the  camp  outfit  or  woods,  fields  or  streams  may  provide— even 
to  the  making  of  desserts.  Every  recipe  is  the  result  of  hard  practice 
and  long  experience.  Every  recipe  has  been  carefully  tested.  It  is 
the  book  for  the  man  who  wants  to  dine  well  and  wholesomely,  but 


in  true  wilderness  fashion  without  reliance  on  grocery  stores  or 
elaborate  camp  outfits.  It  is  adapted  equally  well  to  the  trips  of 
every  length  and  to  all  conditions  of  climate,  season  or  country;  the 
best  possible  companion  for  one  who  wants  to  travel  light  and  live 
well.  The  chapter  headings  tell  their  own  story.  Provisions — 
Utensils — Fires — Dressing  and  Keeping  Game  and  Frsh — Meat — 
Game  —Fish  and  Shell  Fish — Cured  Meats,  etc. — Eggs— Breadstufis 
and  Cereals — Vegetables — Soups— Beverages  and  Desserts. 

"Camp  Cookery  is  destined  to  be  in  the  kit  of  every  tent 
dweller  in  the  country." — Edwin  Markham  in  the  San 
Francisco  Examiner. 

CANOE     AND     BOAT     BUILDING,     by     Victor 

Slocum.  All  of  us  like  to  think  we  could  build  a  boat  if  we  had 
to.  Mr.  Slocum  tells  us  how  to  do  it.  Designs  are  given  for  the 
various  types  of  canoes  as  well  as  full  descriptions  for  preparing  tne 
material  and  putting  it  together.  Small  dories  and  lapstreak  boats 
are  also  included. 


CATTLE  DISEASES,  by  B.  T.  Woodward.    MF. 

Woodward  takes  up  in  detail  the  various  common  diseases  to  which 
cattle  are  liable.  His  book  is  designed  for  the  aid  of  the  practical 
farmer  in  cases  where  the  skilled  veterinarian  is  not  necessary.  A 
careful  description  of  the  various  diseases  is  given  and  the  accepted 
forms  of  treatment  stated. 

EXERCISE  AND  HEALTH,  by  Dr.  Woods  Hutch- 

inson.  Dr.  Hutchinson  takes  the  common-sense  view  that  the 
greatest  problem  in  exercise  for  most  of  us  is  to  get  enough  of  the 
right  kind.  The  greatest  error  in  exercise  is  not  to  take  enough, 
and  the  greatest  danger  in  athletics  is  in  giving  them  up.  The  Chap- 
ter heads  are  illuminating.  Errors  in  Exercise — Exercise  and  the 
Heart — Muscle  Maketh  Man — The  Danger  of  Stopping  Athletics — 
Exercise  that  Rests.  It  is  written  in  a  direct  matter-of-fact  manner 
with  an  avoidance  of  medical  terms,  and  a  strong  emphasis  on  the 
rational,  all-round  manner  of  living  that  is  best  calculated  to  bring  a 
man  to  a  ripe  old  age  with  little  illness  or  consciousness  of  bodily 
weakness. 

"One  of  the  most  readable  books  ever  written  on  physi- 
cal exercise." — Luther  H.  Gulick,  M.D.,  Department 
of  Child  Hygiene,  Russell  Sage  Foundation. 


FARM  DRAINAGE  &  IRRIGATION,  by  W. J.McGee. 

Sometimes'  it  is  necessary  to  spend  money  to  get  water  on  the  land; 
sometimes  to  get  it  off.  Mr.  McGee  has  studied  the  question  from  both 
angles  in  his  work  for  the  Department  of  Agriculture  and  this  book 
will  contain  his  latest  and  fullest  conclusions.  Particular  attention 
will  be  paid  to  the  matter  of  sub-surface  irrigation  to  which  little 
heed  has  been  given  until  lately. 

FENCING,  by  Edward  Breck.  Dr.  Breck  was  for  many 
years  one  of  the  best-known  amateur  fencers  in  America  and  is  ac- 
quainted with  the  best  swordsmen  of  the  present  day,  here  and 
abroad.  His  book  is  a  practical  guide  for  those  who  wish  to  know 
the  most  approved  practice  in  the  use  of  the  foil,  duelling  sword,  or 
saber.  Suggestions  are  given  on  training  and  condition,  as  well 
as  on  the  finer  points  of  the  game. 


THE  FINE  ART  OF  FISHING,  by  Samuel  G.  Camp. 

Combines  the  pleasure  of  catching  fish  with  the  gratification  of  fol- 
lowing the  sport  in  the  most  approved  manner.  The  suggestions 
offered  are  helpful  to  beginner  and  expert  anglers.  The  range  of 
fish  and  fishing  conditions  covered  is  wide  and  includes  such  sub- 
jects as  "Casting  Fine  and  Far  Off",  "Strip-Casting  for  Bass",  "Fish- 
ing for  Mountain  Trout"  and  "Autumn  Fishing  for  Lake  Trout". 
The  book  is  pervaded  with  a  spirit  of  love  for  the  streamside  and  the 
out-doors  generally  which  the  genuine  angler  will  appreciate.  A 
companion  book  to  "Fishing  Kits  and  Equipment".  The  advice  on 
outfitting  so  capably  given  in  that  book  is  supplemented  in  this  later 
work  by  equally  valuable  information  on  how  to  use  the  equipment. 

"Will  encourage  the  beginner  and  give  pleasure  to  the 

expert  fisherman." — N.  Y.  Sun. 

FISHING  KITS  AND  EQUIPMENT  by  Samuel  G. 

Camp.  A  complete  guide  to  the  angler  buying  a  new  outfit.  Every 
detail  of  the  fishing  kit  of  the  freshwater  angler  is  described,  from  rod- 
tip  to  creel,  and  clothing.  Special  emphasis  is  laid  on  outfitting  for 


fly  fishing,  but  full  instruction  is  also  given  to  the  man  who  wants 
to  catch  pickerel,  pike,  muskellunge,  lake-trout,  bass  and  other  fresh- 
water game  fishes.  Prices  are  quoted  for  all  articles  recommended 
and  the  approved  method  of  selecting  and  testing  the  various  rods, 
lines,  leaders,  etc.,  is  described. 

"A  complete  guide  to  the  angler  buying  _a  new  outfit." — 

— Peoria  Herald. 

FISHING  WITH  FLOATING  FLIES  by  Samuel  G. 

Camp.  This  is  an  art  that  is  comparatively  new  in  this  country 
although  English  anglers  have  used  the  dry  fly  for  generations.  Mr. 
Camp  has  given  the  matter  special  study  and  is  one  of  the  few  Amer- 
ican anglers  who  really  understands  the  matter  from  the  selection  of 
the  outfit  to  the  landing  of  the  fish.  His  book  takes  up  the  process 
in  that  order,  namely— How  to  Outfit  for  Dry  Fly  Fishing — How, 
Where,  and  When  to  Cast— The  Selection  and  Use  of  Floating  Flies 
—Dry  Fly  Fishing  for  Brook,  Brown  and  Rainbow  Trout— Hooking, 
Playing  and  Landing — Practical  Hints  on  Dry  Fly  Fishing. 

5 


THE  FOX  TERRIER,  by  Williams  Haynes.     As  in 

his  other  books  on  the  terrier,  Mr.  Haynes  takes  up  the  origin  and 
history  ot  the  breed,  its  types  and  standards,  and  the  more  exclusive 
representatives  down  to  the  present  time.  Training  the  Fox  Terrier 
— His  Care  and  Kenneling  in  Sickness  and  Health — and  the  Various 
Uses  to  Which  He  Can  be  Put— are  among  the  phases  handled. 

THE   GASOLINE   MOTOR,    by    Harold   Whiting 

Slauson.  Deals  with  the  practical  problems  of  motor  operation. 
The  standpoint  is  that  of  the  man  who  wishes  to  kmrv  how  and 
why  gasoline  generates  power  and  something  about  the  various 
types.  Describes  in  detail  the  different  parts  of  motors  and  the 
faults  to  which  they  are  liable.  Also  gives  full  directions  as  to  re- 
pair and  upkeep.  Various  chapters  deal  with  Types  of  Motors — 
Valves — Bearings —  Ignition  —  Carburetors  —  Lubrication  —  Fuel  — 
Two  Cycle  Motors. 

GUNSMITHING  FOR  THE  AMATEUR,  by  Edward 

C.  Grossman.  Mr.  Grossman,  who  is  one  of  the  best-known 
rifle  experts  in  the  country,  takes  up  in  detail  the  care  and  repair 
of  the  gun.  He  discusses  such  questions  as  The  Present  Develop- 
ment of  the  Gun — Tools  for  the  Amateur — Rifle  Barrels — Smooth 
Bore  Barrels — Rifle  Actions — Pistol  and  Gun  Actions — Refinishing 
and  Processing — The  Stock,  Sights  and  Aids  to  Accuracy. 


THE  HORSE— Its  Breeding,  Care  and  Use,  by 
David  Buffum.  Mr.  Buffum  takes  up  the  common,  every-day 
problems  of  the  ordinary  horse-user,  such  as  feeding,  shoeing, 
simple  home  remedies,  breaking  and  the  cure  for  various  equine 
vices.  An  important  chapter  is  that  tracing  the  influx  ot  Arabian 
blood  into  the  English  and  American  horses  and  its  value  and  limi- 
tations. Chapters  are  included  on  draft-horses,  carriage  horses,  and 
the  development  of  the  two-minute  trotter.  It  is  distinctly  a  sensible 
book  for  the  sensible  man  who  wishes  to  know  how  he  can  improve 
his  horses  and  his  horsemanship  at  the  same  time. 

INTENSIVE   FARMING,  by  L.  C.  Corbett.     A  dis- 

cussion  of  the  meaning,  method  and  value  of  intensive  methods  in 
agriculture.  This  book"  is  designed  for  the  convenience  of  practical 
farmers  who  find  themselves  under  the  necessity  of  making  a  living 
out  of  high-priced  land. 


LAYING  OUT  THE  FARM  FOR 
PROFIT,  by  L.  G.  Dodge.  One  of  the 
farmers'  great  problems  is  to  put  every  acre  of 
his  land  to  the  best  possible  use.  This  book 
discusses  the  methods  ot  obtaining  this  result. 
The  author  is  an  investigator  for  the  Department 
of  Agriculture  and  has  given  particular  atten- 
tion to  this  subject. 


THE  MOTOR  BOAT— Its  Selection,  Care  and  Use, 
by  H.  W.  Slauson.  The  intending  purchaser  is  advised  as  to  the 
type  of  motor  boat  best  suited  to  his  particular  needs  and  how  to 
keep  it  in  running  condition  after  purchased.  The  Chapter  headings 
are:  Kinds  and  Uses  of  Motor  Boats — When  the  Motor  Balks — 
Speeding  of  the  Motor  Boat — Getting  More  Power  from  a  New  Motor 
— How  to  Install  a  Marine  Power  Plant — 
Accessories — Covers,  Canopies  and  Tops — 
Camping  and  Cruising — The  Boathouse. 


NAVIGATION  FOR  THE  AMA- 
TEUR, by  Capt.  E.  T.  Morton.  A  short 
treatise  on  the  simpler  methods  of  finding 
position  at  sea  by  the  observation  of  the  sun's 
altitude  and  the  use  of  the  sextant  and  chro- 
nometer. It  is  arranged  especially  for  yachts- 
men and  amateurs  who  wish  to  know  the  simpler  formulae  for  the 
necessary  navigation  involved  in  taking  a  boat  anywhere  off  shore. 
Illustrated  with  drawings.  Chapter  headings:  Fundamental  Terms — 
Time — The  Sumner  Line— The  Day's  Work,  Equal  Altitude,  and 
Ex-Meridian  Sights — Hints  on  Taking  Observations. 


OUTDOOR  PHOTOGRAPHY,  by  Julian  A.  Dimock. 
A  solution  of  all  the  problems  in  camera  work  out-of-doors.  The 
various  subjects  dealt  with  are  The  Camera — Lens  and  Plates— Light 
and  Exposure  —  Development  —  Prints  and  Printing  —  Composi- 
tion^- ^Landscapes  —  Figure  Work  —  Speed  Photography  —  The 
Leaping  Tarpon — Sea  Pictures — In  the  Good  Old 
Winter  Time— Wild  Life.  The  purpose  of  the  book 
is  to  serve  as  a  guide  not  only  for  the  man  or 
woman  who  has  just  taken  up  the  use  of  the 
camera,  but  also  for  those  who  have  progressed 
far  enough  to  know  some  of  the  problems  that 
confront  them. 


OUTDOOR  SIGNALLING,   by   Elbert  Wells.     Mr. 

"Wells  has  perfected  a  method  of  signalling  by  means  of  wig-wag, 
light,  smoke,  or  whistle  which  is  as  simple  as  it  is  effective.  The 
fundamental  principle  can  be  learnt  in  ten  minutes  and  its  applica- 
tion is  far  easier  than  that  of  any  other  code  now  in  use.  It  permits 
also  the  use  of  cipher  and  can  be  adapted  to  almost  any  imaginable 
conditions  of  weather,  light,  or  topography. 

"I  find  it  to  be  the  simplest  and  most  practical  book  on 
signalling  published." — Frank  H.  Schrenk,  Director  of 
Camp  Belgrade. 

' '  One  of  the  finest  things  of  the  kind  I  have  ever  seen.  I 
believe  my  seven  year  old  boy  can  learn  to  use  this  system, 
and  I  knovj  that  tue  will  find  it  very  useful  here  in  our 
Boy  Scout  work." — Lyman  G.  Haskell,  Physical  Direc- 
tor, Y.  M.  C.  A.t  Jacksonville,  Fla. 


PACKING  AND  PORTAGING,  by  Dillon  Wallace. 

Mr.  "Wallace  has  brought  together  in  one  volume  all  the  valuable 
information  on  the  different  ways  of  making  and  carrying  the 
different  kinds  of  packs.  The  ground  covered  ranges  from  man- 
packing  to  horse-packing,  from  the  use  of  the  tump  line  to  throwing 
the  diamond  hitch.  The  various  chapters  deal  with  Packing  and 
the  Outfit — The  Canoe  and  Its  Equipment — Camp  Equipment  for 
the  Canoe  Trip— Personal  Equipment— Food — The  Portage — Travel 
with  Saddle  and  Pack  Animals — Saddle  and  Pack  Equipment — 
Adjusting  the  Pack — Some  Practical  Hitches— Traveling  Without  a 
Pack  Horse — Afoot  in  Summer — With  Snowshoes  and  Toboggan — 
"With  Dogs  and  Komatik. 

PRACTICAL  POULTRY  KEEPING,  by  R.  B.  Sando. 

In  effect  a  comprehensive  manual  for  the  instruction  of  the  man 
who  desires  to  begin  poultry  raising  on  a  large  or  small  scale  and  to 
avoid  the  ordinary  mistakes  to  which  the  beginner  is  prone.  All 
the  statements  are  based  on  the  author's  own  experience,  and  special 
care  has  been  taken  to  avoid  sensationalism  and  exaggeration.  The 
general  contents  are  Poultry  Keeping  and  Keepers — Housing  and 
Yarding — Fixtures  and  Equipment — Choosing  and  Buying  Stock — 
Foods  and  Feeding — Hatching  and  Raising  Chicks — Poultry  Diseases. 
Illustrated. 

8 


PROFITABLE  BREEDS  OF  POULTRY,  by  Arthur 

S.  wheeler.  Mr.  Wheeler  discusses  from  personal  experience 
the  best-known  general  purpose  breeds.  Advice  is  given  from  the 
standpoint  of  the  man  who  desires  results  in  eggs  and  stock  rather 
than  in  specimens  for  exhibition.  In  addition  to  a  careful  analysis 
of  stock — good  and  bad — and  some  conclusions  regarding  housing 
and  management,  the  author  writes  in  detail  regarding  Plymouth 
Rocks,  Wyandottes,  Orpingtons,  Rhode  Island  Reds,  Mediterraneans 
and  the  Cornish. 

"This  is  an  invaluable  book  for  those  ewho  would  make 
a  success  in  the  poultry  business." — Grand  Rapids, 
(Mich.)  Herald. 

RIFLES    AND    RIFLE    SHOOTING,    by    Charles 

AskinS.  A  practical  manual  describing  various  makes  and  mechan- 
isms, in  addition  to  discussing  in  detail  the  range  and  limitations  in 
the  use  of  the  rifle.  Among  other  things,  the  chapters  deal  with 
The  Development  of  the  American  Breech-Loading  Rifle — Single 
Shot  Rifle — Lgver-Action  Repeater — Pump-Action  Repeater  and 


Military  Bolt-Action—Double  Rifle— Rifle  and  Shotgun— Self-Loading 
Rifle — Rifle  Cartridges,  Miniature  and  Gallery — Small  Game — 
Match-Rifle  Cartridges  and  Their  Manipulation — High  Power, 
Small  Bore  Hunting  Cartridges — Big  Bore,  High  Power  Cartridges 
— Trajectory,  Accuracy,  and  Power  of  Hunting  Cartridges — Weight 
of  Rifle  and  Recoil — Stocks  and  Triggers— Rifle  Sights — Positions 
for  Rifle  Shooting — Outdoor  Target  Shooting, — Quick  Firing  and 
Running  Shots — Fancy  Snap  and  Wingshooting — Two-Hundred  Yard 
Sharp  shooting. 

SCOTTISH  AND  IRISH  TERRIERS,  by  Williams 

Haynes.  This  is  a  companion  book  to  "The  Airedale",  and  deals 
with  the  history  and  development  of  both  breeds.  For  the  owner 
of  the  dog,  valuable  information  is  given  as  to  the  use  of  the 
terriers,  their  treatment  in  health,  their  treatment  when  sick,  the 
principles  of  dog  breeding,  and  dog  shows  and  rules. 

The  happy  owner  of  a  terrier  for  the  first  time  could 

not  go   wrong  if  he  follows  Mr.  Haynes'  advice" — 

'Brooklyn  Standard  Union. 


SPORTING  FIREARMS,  by  Horace  KepHart.  This 
book  is  the  result  of  painstaking  tests  and  experiments.  Practically 
nothing  is  taken  for  granted.  Part  I  deals  with  the  rifle,  and  Part 
II  with  the  shotgun.  The  man  seeking  guidance  in  the  selection 
and  use  of  small  firearms,  as  well  as  the  advanced  student  of  the 
subject,  will  receive  an  unusual  amount  of  assistance  from  this  work. 
The  chapter  headings  are:  Rifles  and  Ammunition — The  Flight  of 
Bullets — Killing  Power— Rifle  Mechanism  and  Materials — Rifle 
Sights — Triggers  and  Stocks — Care  of  Rifle — Shot  Patterns  and 
Penetration  —  Gauges  and  Weights  —  Mechanism  and  Build  of 
Shotguns. 


TRACKS    AND    TRACKING,   by   Josef  Brunner. 

After  twenty  years  of  patient  study  and  practical  experience,  Mr. 
Brunner  can,  from  his  intimate  knowledge,  speak  with  authority  on 
this  subject.  "Tracks  and  Tracking"  shows  how  to  follow  intelli- 
gently even  the  most  intricate  animal  or  bird  tracks.  It  teaches 
how  to  interpret  tracks  of  wild  game  and  decipher  the  many  tell- 
tale signs  of  the  chase  that  would  otherwise  pass  unnoticed.  It 
proves  how  it  is  possible  to  tell  from  the  footprints  the  name,  sex, 
speed,  direction,  whether  and  how  wounded,  and  many  other  things 
about  wild  animals  and  birds.  All  material  has  been  gathered  first 
hand;  the  drawings  and  half-tones  from  photographs  form  an  im- 
portant part  of  the  work,  as  the  author  has  made  faithful  pictures  of 
the  tracks  and  signs  of  the  game  followed.  The  list  is:  The  White- 
Tailed  or  Virginia  Deer— The  Fan-Tailed  Deer— The  Mule-Deer— 
The  Wapiti  or  Elk— The  Moose  — The  Mountain  Sheep— The 
Antelope— The  Bear— The  Cougar— The  Lynx— The  Domestic  Cat 
-The  Wolf— The  Coyote— The  Fox— The  Jack  Rabbit— The  Vary- 
ing Hare— The  Cottontail  Rabbit— The  Squirrel— The  Marten  and 
the  Black-Footed  Ferret— The  Otter— The  Mink— The  Ermine— The 
Beaver— The  Badger— The  Procupine  — The  Skunk  —  Feathered 
Game — Upland  Birds — Waterfowl — Predatory  Birds.  This  book  is 
invaluable  to  the  novice  as  well  as  the  experienced  hunter. 

"This  book  studied  carefully,  will  enable  the  reader  to 
become  as  well  versed  in  tracking  lore  as  he  could  by 
years  of  actual  experience." — Lewiston  Journal. 

10 


WING  AND  TRAP-SHOOTING,  by  Charles  Askins. 

The  only  practical  manual  in  existance  dealing  with  the  modern 
gun.  It  contains  a  full  discussion  of  the  various  methods,  such  as 
snap-shooting,  swing  and  half-swing,  discusses  the  flight  of  birds 
with  reference  to  the  gunner's  problem  oi  lead  and  range  and  makes 
special  application  of  the  various  points  to  the  different  birds  com- 
monly shot  in  this  country.  A  chapter  is  included  on  trap  shooting 
and  the  book  closes  with  a  forceful  and  common-sense  presentation 
of  the  etiquette  of  the  field. 

"//  is  difficult  to  understand  how  anyone  who  takes  a  de- 
light in  hunting  can  afford  to  be  'without  this  valuable 
book."— Chamber  of  Commerce  Bulletin,  Portland,  Ore. 
'"This  book  will  prove  an  invaluable  manual  to  the  true 
sportsman,  whether  he  be  a  tyro  or  expert."  —  'Book  News 
Monthly. 

"Its  closing  chapter  on  field  etiquette  deserves  careful 
reading." — N.  Y.  Times. 

THE  YACHTSMAN'S  HANDBOOK,  by  Herbert  L. 

Stone.  The  author  and  compiler  of  this  work  is  the  editor  of 
"Yachting".  He  treats  in  simple  language  of  the  many  problems 
confronting  the  amateur  sailor  and  motorboatman.  Handling 
ground  tackle,  handling  lines,  taking  soundings,  the  use  of  the  lead 
line,  care  and  use  of  sails,  yachting  etiquette,  are  all  given  careful 
attention.  Some  light  is  thrown  upon  the  operation  of  the  gasoline 
motor,  and  suggestions  are  made  for  the  avoidance  of  engine 
troubles. 


11 


14  DAY  USE 

RETURN  TO  DESK  FROM  WHICH  BORROWED 

LOAN  DEPT. 

This  book  is  due  on  the  last  date  stamped  below, 
or  on  the  date  to  which  renewed.  Renewals  only: 

Tel.  No.  642-3405 

Renewals  may  be  made  4  days  priod  to  date  due. 
Renewed  books  are  subject  to  immediate  recall. 

BECDLD  flE    1 72 -IF* 5 T 


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